Year ending

Wishing everyone a happy new year. Well, monsoon is long over and trekking has stopped-for now. But reminiscing about this year's treks (and a good trekking year it was!), I found some more photos from that great hike at peb fort this september end. Such peace, such beauty, so close to the city! It was a good hike to end up a great monsoon season.

Photos have been uploaded at: http://picasaweb.google.com/upsidedownv/Peb2

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HOW TO IMPROVE FORTS AND WIN OVER TREKKERS

Peb fort (1554 ft) is one of the most popular trekking places around Bombay. Approachable from Neral station on the local line, it is regularly visited by trekkers and trekking groups alike. It is one of the places that I have visited many times over the years and has always been a enjoyable trek. However over the years, the popularity of the place also meant more trekkers, sometimes resulting in queues over the ridges leading to the fort. But if you want to avoid crowds and enjoy the peace, the best time is to go little late in the monsoons – late Aug/early Sept.

This is also the time when trekking activities in monsoon begin to slow down and its difficult to find members for a trek. As a result, this trek had just whittled down to three members. So our trio found itself walking from Neral to the electric towers that lead to the pass between Peb fort and adjoining Nakhind. The easy route is to follow the towers and the path is clear. The path then goes round, continuing to the right till you reach a dry waterfall through which the path continues all the way up to the khind.

From this point, turning to the left, one climbs up ridges leading to the fort. By this time of the year, everything is overgrown and we just seemed to disappear in the tall bushes. However flowers are in full bloom and it’s a delight to walk along bloom-strewn paths with the sound of buzzing bees and sight of flitting butterflies. Since it was either drizzling or sunny we did sweat now and then, but the views of the Matheran range were fantastic. One could also see straight ahead the main Sahyadri range up to Gorakhgad and Nane Ghat.

There are caves on the fort (which can be explored by the adventurous if they have a torch handy), water tanks and remnants of walls. Most of the times that I have gone to Peb, the trek stops at a wall section of the fort which has to be climbed to reach the summit. There are nails on the wall and holds carved out on the nearby rock face for climbing up; but the rocks are generally wet and slippery. I have usually moved ahead along the path which traverses along the edge to lead finally to Matheran’s railway line.

The rains in July 2005 were so heavy that they altered landscape around Matheran. As a result the route to Matheran from the fort is supposed to have become bad. Since this route is used by villagers, I suppose' they did some improvements. Firstly there is now a steel ladder up the wall to reach the summit easily.

This was the first time that I properly visited the top of the fort, which has no historical remnants. A small open-air shrine with a flag marks the top. But the real treat is the great views and the flower filled expanses that should not be missed. There is a steep climb where a rope tied to a tree at the top comes in very handy. A clear route from the top leads to a habitation on the fort (we heard there is a sadhu here, but did not stop to verify). From the back side of this hut, the route goes towards Matheran. This was a new route for me and it was made possible due to two big steel ladders that have been installed below a cliff face. One then traverses Matheran till the railway line below Panorama Point. Here too steps have been made, a small temple has been installed and what was once a confusing part of the hike has been made simple. (We often missed the point where one start climbing up to reach the railway). From here on we walked a couple or so kilometers along the overgrown railway track to reach a misty Matheran (near the Dasturi point).

So many times, I get the feeling that forts are being ruined by accessibility and increasing crowds that this was a great surprise. Roads do make forts more easily reachable but the cost of environmental and aesthetic damage makes me wonder if this is worth it. However at Peb, all the improvements are minimal and while they make things easier than before, they don’t spoil the trek in any way. That is a balance hard to achieve and definitely worth appreciating!

link to photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/upsidedownv/PebPanorama

-the monsoon trekker

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Revisiting...Part 2

After Lohgad, I really felt as if I needed to go to Visapur just to feel as if I was on a real trek. Compared to the popularity of Lohgad, the serenity of Visapur is a complete contrast even though the two forts are side by side. From the common col, we turned to the path to Visapur which is clearly marked. One has to go across the fort till one reaches a small shed from where the a couple of paths break out but lead to the same place. From this path the bifurcation for Visapur is a small path that is tricky to find at times which joins a nala after going through some dense shrubbery. Looking at the path, I guess there were not many takers for this fort. After a good short climb up the dry nala (there was no rain), we were up at the top where it was cool.

The peace and greenery and complete absence of plastic around was welcome. Visapur is a larger fort and one needs to give an hour or so to see it all. Some of the fortification is still intact and the views are great. No monsoon hike is really complete without mist and we were walking in the clouds in some time. We walked across the fort to reach the other end (not too long) where another path leads you towards Malavli. I had gone on this path after a very long time and it was a great experience. Steps lead you down towards a small sculpture and then down a stream. From here the route goes through thick bushes until you finally reach a lower plateau and then its clear. For those you want to escape the junta, Visapur is a good option climbed from this side. I met a group from Countryside (who do commercial hikes) who do Visapur this way. There is also an alternate route to Bhaja caves directly from Visapur which I will do another time.

The five-star hike experience ended at a private cottage with cold beer bottles to welcome us! From there it was to those chauffered cars, which was all and nice but next time I will take the laal dabba for sure!

-monsoon trekker

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Revisiting forts in Lonavla

This Sunday was hiking nostalgia. The place was Lonavla and the forts were Lohgad and Visapur. An old hiking companion had come for this trek, one whom I credited for what I call ‘the five star hike’ experience. True to form, as in the old days, we were to travel in air conditioned chauffeur driven cars and someone surely had brought beer along!

I had not been to Lohgad for quite some time, probably eight to ten years. Though it is an amazing fort, its proximity and accessibility had begun to take their toll. The old paivat had become a broad kuccha road; and the place is swarming with groups of non-trekker types.

As such on this hike too, we had the company of large groups, often commercial trekking groups or groups of uncle-aunty types with their cousins. Some of us (the fast walkers) in our large group managed to move ahead of these ‘crowds’ and made our way to the top. I might sound derogatory but I have nothing against non-hiker types or casual hikers other than that they tend to litter and create too much noise. The top of Lohgad was a mess, with plastic scattered everywhere you went. The Marathas built great cisterns on the fort to store water, not to dump plastic in them!

The best thing on the fort was the amazing vinchukata fortification where I think not all the people who visit Lohgad eventually go to. Along with the forts impressive walls, it is a testament to the great fort architecture that the Marathas built. Now only if the public could show some respect to it!

For those who haven’t been to Lohgad (3412 ft). The fort is reached from Malavli, the next station after Lonavla on the Pune local railway. From there a tar road goes to Bhaja village from where an easy track leads to Lohgadwadi, the base village.

for photos go to: http://picasaweb.google.com/upsidedownv/LohgadVisapur

to be continued

-monsoon trekker

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Dhavle Ghat

Our third day saw us dragging our heavy sacks out on a cloudy morning to Mr. More’s house who gave us excellent gavti chaha. We set out by six thirty to climb Dhavle ghat, which involved first going all the way around Chandragad. As you reach the other side of Chandragad, the jungle become thick and the climb starts upward. It was a long hard climb through some fantastically dense forest, where Mr.More had his handy koyta ready to make the way At a certain point our informative guide (who was a hunter earlier) showed us leopard feces. Later on he even gave us porcupine twills that had fallen in the way. We rested for some time near a beautiful waterfall where some of us couldn't resist a dip in the water!

After about three hours or so, we had finished one part of the climb; then we begin traversing the side of the mountains opposite Chandragad. The path though not exposed is on the side and very small, feels a bit unstable. On the way Mr. More also accidentally killed a green tree snake. We climbed a point where a boulder has a Hanuman covered. Here we finally got great views of Chandragad.

As we kept climbing up, we were surrounded by the mist. As we traversed the cliffs, Mr.More informed us that in rains rocks do fall from the top which made us speed up immediately. Finally some old idols mark the point where Dhavle ghat finishes and the route bifurcates. We took the higher route to Arthur’s Seat. After initially going through the forest, it cleared to a muddy climb which was very bad. The wind was so strong we were getting literally blown away. And as if our bags were not helpful in balance, the path was very slippery with no rocks or plants to hold. After this bad stretch we reached a grassy area from where no path was to be seen. Our guide was also confused and decided to explore on his own first.

For the next hour, he searched in vain. Because of the thick mist, strong wind and on-off rain, it was not easy. As per his calculations we were close and if the fog cleared we could have seen Aruthur’s Seat. Blaming it on some bhootadki, he reluctantly accepted defeat.

We climbed down once again passing the ‘bad’ stretch and reached the bifurcation and set out to Jor. The route to Jor goes through some incredibly beautiful forest full of trees. It was one of the most beautiful paths I have gone through, passing so many streams that I lost count (probably its one stream only that we kept crossing again and again!). But in monsoons, the speciality of this place is the leeches which will leap on you. Our guide told us to not stop and we walked as fast as we could. Yet when we had finished we still had a few bloodsuckers on each of us!

Jor is below old Mahabaleshwar and connected to Wai by road though not by the bus. Ricks/jeeps are available. We finished around five which meant baring 45 minutes of waiting at top for the ‘lost’ path, we had walked for almost ten hours. It was the longest day of our hike but definitely one of the best. An unforgettable experience in an awesome area in the beauty of rains.

-the monsoon trekker

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Chandragad

Second day, we got up early, refreshed from good food and good sleep to catch our early bus. It was raining when we took the 6:15 bus which did not deter the driver who speeded all the way to Mahad. At Mahad, my cousin left for Pune and we were down to four.

After a warm glass of tea and a copy of the Sunday times, we caught a bus to Poladpur and from there to Gorela/Khandas. There is an earlier bus to Umrath and a bus at 12 directly to Dhavle which is the base village for Chandragad. We got down at a village (whose name I unfortunately don’t remember) from where we crossed the river on a bridge and climbed to Umrath. This is the birthplace of Tanaji Malusare with a statue installed by the side of the road. Later we were told that there are a few swords of this famous warrior in the village too. We passed a spectacular waterfall on the way to Dhavle where unfortunately there was a van full of middle aged men dancing in their underwear to music, chucking some bottles here and there. As a trekker it is ones’ responsibility to create as less rubbish as possible on our beautiful countryside, so it is shameful to see people littering carelessly.


After the waterfall, from the next village, one can take shortcuts to reach Dhavle instead of walking on the tar road. We were recommended by other villagers on the way to ask for Vitthal More who generally takes people around. We started for Chandragad at around one and made our way through the beautiful forest near the village. The guide is not really necessary as the route is more or less marked with boards. After passing a stream a board announces Chandragad Darshan – the fort was built by Chandrarao More. From here the route is steep and ends up on the top of the fort.

Our guide took us on the narrow top where there are few ruined walls and remnants of houses. There is a Nandi statue and a shivling temple. There are also water-tanks and caves on the fort, but all of it does not amount to much We got fantastic views of the thickly forested valleys around Dhavle village and also of the route of Dhavle ghat. Lucky for us, after a bout of heavy rain, wind and mist, the clouds around us parted to give us these views.

We returned the same way back to Dhavle village by around five, making this fort a comfortable roughly four hour excursion. In monsoon the surrounding beauty and isolation is a treat! There is also a temple to stay in the village, excellent for hikers to camp in. Cooking is allowed but smoking and drinks are banned, informed the hassled priest. We had our food and made plans to take on Dhavle ghat though Mr. More was reluctant. But since the weather was fine (on and off rain) we decided to give the morning bus (6:00 am to Poladpur) a miss and proceed to Mahabaleshwar.

for more photos here is the link:
http://picasaweb.google.com/upsidedownv/2007mahabaleswar

-monsoon trekker

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Mangalgad - Kangori fort

After last years big monsoon trek of Mahipatgad, Sumargad and Rasalgad, the confidence of our trekking group was at a high. Hence we decided to repeat the big monsoon trek around the same time (mid August) in the same region (southern Sahyadris). I planned the itinerary: Mangalgad, Chandragad and if possible ascent to Arthur Seat at Mahabaleshwar. Though I swear by Harish Kapadia’s book on trekking, I did need more information which was obtained thanks to the wonders of orkut.com!

We set out on Friday to Pune by a late night bus and caught the early morning bus to Khed which passes by the Varandha ghat. Our group of five trekkers (four men, one woman) got down at Dhalkathi, a little ahead of Varandha village for the bus to Pimpalwadi. The base of Mangalgad (or Kangori) fort is Dudhanewadi or Pimpalwadi (almost the same place) and from Dhalkathi, a phata goes to this village. Buses and ricks are available, either ways it is a bumpy ride.

Once at the picturesque valley near Mangalgad, we set out to climb the fort. The path is directly at the opposite side of the road where the bus leaves you. There is also a signboard if you still need directions. The climb was easy but because of our really heavy sacks (sleeping bags and food and clothes) our progress was slow. Still we made it up in a couple of hours or so. The route is easy but a little slippery while descending. The top when we reached was very windy and we were covered in mist. There is a temple dedicated to Kangori devi which is in utter ruins and there was lot of overgrown shrubbery at the top. We decided to descend without exploring further as it started raining heavily. While descending a few of us did slip down the path but no injuries! We tried to traverse the fort to get down at Kamtha village; a marker here is a couple of shepherd’s huts. However in the path is not clear in monsoon and a guide is advisable. Since my cousin sustained a fall we decided to go down back and stay in Pimpalwadi where shelter was available for sure instead of taking a chance.

Shelter in Pimpalwadi was in a great temple overlooking rice fields. The place is dry, has a light and the floor is smooth and clean. What more can one ask! We cooked our delicious meal of soup, noodles, rice and chicken with a papad or two to go with it. We discussed our next day options. I slept to catch up on two nights’ worth of sleep while my cousin decided to go back next day to Pune. After watching the fireflies in the fields, at night, we finally decided to catch the early morning bus to Mahad and head to Umrath for Chandragad. The bus to Mahad comes at 6:15 in the morning. Pimpalwadi is connected by a bus from Thane which leaves at night from the latter and reaches next morning.

-monsoon trekker

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Intro

Having trekked in Sahyadris for close to 15 monsoons, now I feel like I have enough experience to share with others. However when it comes to information I still have to ask around and during this asking around, I came across blogs, forums, communities that filled in the gaps. As a return favour, I decided to start this blog. I hope that the way I got help from others, so shall others get information from me and my blog

- Monsoon trekker

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