Mahabaleshwar on my mind: Pratapgad from Kshetraphal

the long ridge to Pratapgad

After a gap of two years the August 15 hike took place this year; the choice as always was the Mahabaleshwar region in the rains. This time Pratapgad and Makarandgad were on the agenda though ultimately only one fort was conquered. I am still recuperating from the after-effects: normal life feels boring and the memories of the weekend seem wispy as if they belong to another age; its probably the fact that we had to travel so far: four hours to Poladpur from Mumbai and then another 30kms to the base village of Kshetraphal.

I had heard about an alternative route to Pratapgad on my winter trek last year with a trekking group. A bit of research showed that a visit to Kudpan village (which has the distinction of being at the border of three districts- Raigad, Satara and Ratnagiri) was a high point. The village consists of three separate wadis, the first of which itself is about 6 kms from Kshetraphal. There is a newly built road connecting the two but due to a confused driver we had to do this on foot.

Exhausted by the walk on metalled road, we reached the first wadi of Kudpan. Outside the village, past the rice fields we walked to a gloriously scenic valley; this is where the Mahipatgad range joins the main Sahyadri range; at this valley lies a beautiful waterfall from where water crashes down, carving out a gorge in the steep valley. From the same valley rises Bhimachi Kathi – a tall column of rock that rises from the valley completely detached yet close to the main wall of mountains. These were sights to remember; absolutely breathtaking!

All that scenic pleasure came at a price because in another stroke of bad luck we took a guide who made us walk back on the tar road towards Kshetraphal. Later we came to know there were routes from Kudpan too. It was after two that we really started ‘trekking’. The route went climbed up from a bell by the side of the road, going up to a ridge which snaked its way ahead. Our guide was left us halfway asking us to hold on to the path which would go along the top of the ridge. Unfortunately it didn’t.

We reached an enclosed valley as mists began to envelope us. The rain began and we were worried since it was past three. Luckily we found a villager who said he would give us a guide from his village but once we neared his house, our ‘weak link’ complained of cramps. We decided to camp reluctantly as the rain intensified.

We stayed for the night in a hospitable villager’s hut; it was clean and comfortable and lights came on after eight. Sleep when it came was welcome and deep; after all we had started at around five from Mumbai. Next day we woke up refreshed, a bit sad that our plans to reach the other fort would not materialize.

We climbed from the valley up onto the ridge. The ridge continued up to a high point where another route came from an adjoining mountain. Here we met another villager who like our new guide made the trek everyday selling milk to eateries in Pratapgad. Life may seem romantic in the villages but it’s definitely not easy.

The route now began to descend a bit through woods until the growth cleared off into grass. Now we could see a long ridge that connected to the far-off citadel of Pratapgad which was obscured in misty clouds. However it was to be clear day; no rain but endless views of valleys on either sides. The route is clear cut but very slippery and hence a bit tricky. We walked for almost two hours on the grassy ridges as they meandered towards the fort; it is one of the most beautiful ridge walks in Sahyadris – I can’t say anything more to do justice to nature’s glory!

A final ascent took us into a forest at the foot hills of Pratapgad. Since it was a bit hot after the climb, we were glad to be inside the cool shade. From here on the presence of plastic wrappers meant that we would soon be near Pratapgad. It was Sunday and Independence day; when we reached the fort, there were few visitors but villagers were ready with their wares. Our guide delivered the milk; some of it had gone spoilt; we bought some food for him but he shrugged off and smiled about the milk.

After the incredible beauty witnessed, the commercialized fort seemed like an anticlimax. Still, the fortification was impressive; a guide lamented on how the state was spending crores on a Shivaji statue in the sea while Shivaji’s forts crumbled under apathy. We made our way to Wada Khumbroshi below the fort by a nice path (not the motorable road) that starts behind the parking bay. At the end there was a small stream in the woods which we just could not resist. Fresh and rejeuvanated we waited for the bus which took us down to Poladpur along a route that stood exactly opposite the long ridge that had taken us to Pratapgad. Seperated by a valley, the ridge stood far-off and gave no indication of a walking route; which was just as well, some things are better off being lesser known secrets. Hope things stay that way because I plan to return.