Walking in Matheran

A Colonial Relic at Matheran

On the long Republic Day weekend instead of doing a long trek, I spent my days walking in Matheran. My trekking bible – Harish Kapadia’s “Trekking The Sayhadris” mentions Matheran as:


“This is a well-known hill station and a paradise for hikers, particularly in the monsoon. It has many routes and one can always spend an enjoyable hiking day exploring these…The soil is red and on top excellent walking paths and a lake are the charms of Matheran.”

The ‘excellent walking paths’ cannot be stressed enough; there are several roads to explore around Matheran, either going deep in to the forest or skirting along the edge.


Since a cottage in Matheran has been in my family, I have been lucky to spend several holidays there over the years and they all have been memorable experiences. After all as my cousin Ameya who accompanied said where else, so close to Mumbai, could one experience such wilderness and yet have basic comforts at hand. The cold wave up in the north blessed us with good weather and early mornings were appropriately chilly.


I mentioned before in my blog that the late rains in 2009 have made all winter hikes great because there is still so much greenery around. Matheran was especially verdant at this time of the year.


Most of the crowds at Matheran indulge themselves in the noisy market which is best tackled only for meals. Some venture to a few popular points around the market or visit Charlotte Lake, Matheran’s primary source of water. If you leave early in the morning (even eight is fine if you can’t always get up early like us!) you can visit most of the points and enjoy the views in peace. We visited Louisa Point and Sunset (Porcupine) Point in the morning and enjoyed the wonderful views of the Matheran range right up to Mallangad near Kalyan. Since I had visited Prabal the earlier weekend, it was nice to view the fort from its more famous neighbour.


One of the evenings we did a long circuit to the south of Matheran. A lot of people go to Charlotte Lake but a few continue beyond. At the end of the Matheran towards Karjat lies One-Tree Hill which along with the adjacent Chowk point gives great view of the valley in between Matheran and Prabal, Irshalgad and the Morbe dam reservoir. We watched the sun set from One Tree Hill which requires a bit of climbing. We continued in moon-light to Rambaugh point and then finally trawled to the market. The route is beautiful for walking with thick forest around, a few old Parsi bungalows here and there in the woods. One of the hill station’s charms, are the old properties which are beautiful even when dilapidated; some, like Barr House near the lake are lucky to be converted into tasteful classy hotels.

 As I walked through Matheran I also thought about all the hikes I have done there; Matheran in rains is always great. There are so many routes up; there’s one going down from almost every point! I am just listing a few that I have done: via Peb fort (Panorama Point), Bhivpuri Hill & Garbat point, Rambaugh Point, Sunset Point, Lord Point (Charlotte Lake), from Dasturi to Neral (not by the metalled road)….;if there are others feel free to let me know – I’ll try them this monsoon!

This post is dedicated to the house in Matheran and to my little furry friend there!

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First hike of 2010 - Prabalgad and Kalavantin pinnacle

I might need to rename this blog since over the past two years I have done probably more winter hikes than monsoon ones. 2009 was particularly dismal due to my work schedule and erratic rains. However 2009’s late rains have meant that all winter hikes are turning out to be great.

The decision to go to Prabalgad was very last-minute. This decision was inspired by my friend Lobhus’ earlier solo hike to the place which in turn was inspired by my brother’s solo sojourn to another place. Since neither I nor my friend Shripati would ever go alone for a hike, just the two of us decided to do the hike.

Prabalgad is a great trek in the rains but most often I have been lost in the forests. So as a winter hike option it seemed right and we could study the directions properly this time. We set out to Panvel by train and then took a bus to Thakurwadi village which goes via the old Bombay-Pune road. (The first two buses leave Panvel at 5.20 and 7.00)

We alighted at Thakurwadi and had to move past various new constructions that have come out in the last few years including a Zola mountain spa and some aesthetically unpleasing houses built by Dharap associates (if you are planning to buy a place here, you should invest your money elsewhere; though the owners’ pads are better landscaped….) Even Salman Khan has a house somewhere around the area!

One has to walk on a private tarred road belonging to Dharap before the climb begins. The well-marked path zig-zags towards the northern end of the Prabal plateau or machi. One the top is the Prabal machi village which though is in nice surroundings, is quite dirty with plastic garbage. On the left is the Kalavantin pinnacle and next to it is the wide expanse of Prabal fort. About half an hour or so from the village one reaches the base of the pinnacle from where wonderfully rock cut steps climb steeply taking one to the top which is a final mass of rocks. The last rock climb is easy for experienced trekkers and the summit has a single flag and great views.

We started our hike around 8 in the morning and had reached the summit around 9:30. We made our way back to the village to tackle Prabal. The Kalavantin pinnacle sees more hikers nowadays; its thrills are easy and fast, kind of like trekking fast-food! The villagers seem to pronounce it more like Harish Kapadia’s book says- Kelveteen; I am not sure which nomenclature is right. Prabalgad on the other receives less visitors but its charms have to be hard-earned. A walk across the machi through bushy forest takes us to the centre of the massif from where a steep path arises. We lost our way once but had a nice walk on the machi, amidst flowering greenery. We had to retrace our path to find a bifurcation (near a large tree) from where thankfully arrows were painted on rocks. A sturdy climb (quite hot around twelve o’clock) took us into the fort. The top is a large plateau comparable to Matheran and is thickly forested. One can ramble around for hours; we went following the arrows to the northern end, where there is a water tank. One can see views of Matheran range and also sight some of the bastions of the fort. At the extreme end a fabulous view of the Kalavantin pinnacle is a must-do.

We started descending around two and had to hurry down to reach by four for a bus back to Panvel. The great thing about Prabal is that it’s so easy to reach from Bombay and yet the seclusion and wilderness at the top is so great. We did not see a single soul at the top of the fort but we did catch sight of a few birds, a couple of grey langurs and a lizard or two. Throughout the hike there were lots of flowers and blooms so that there were bees buzzing by and butterflies flitting about. Truly a great way to spend an idyllic winter day!

As usual photos are on Picasa at: http://picasaweb.google.co.in/upsidedownv/Prabal2010?feat=directlink

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Harischandragad Reloaded: Nalichi Vaat Trek

I have a photo of myself on Harischandragad, sitting near Konkan Kada among flowers. Its an old photo from one of my earliest hikes and that particular hike was a benchmark for all other hikes in terms of personal enjoyment and satisfaction. Since it had been more than ten years since I last visited Harischandragad I had been planning to go back for quite some time. So when the opportunity came I jumped along to go with a trekking group in order to tackle the difficult ‘Nalichi vaat’ route.

It was the first time that I was going with a trekking group; my uncle Anu mama and cousin Ameya joined me and we met the group Trekmates at Kalyan station late on Friday night. We made our way by bus to Tokavde and from there to Belpada (now Walivare) village which is at the base of the fort from the Konkan side. We were a group of about thirty and we camped for the night in the village. Next morning after a cup of tea and a round of introductions we started off.

We started towards Konkan Kada at around eight o’clock. Needless to say, the views were fantastic. The walk quickly became a climb and soon we were in the ‘nali’ or the waterfall which was completely dry by this time of the year. The climb became steep but the group was full of able-bodied trekkers and we had climbed a fair amount by eleven in the morning. It was time to eat, drink and recharge.

After we started to climb the incline became steep. Generally the route takes around eight hours to climb and soon we knew why! (Everybody was feeling good about our initial speed!) As one climbs higher, huge rock walls appear and the ascent gets steeper. Luckily we reached this stage at the right time and we were spared from direct sunlight as the tree cover was zero. As one climbs higher rock patches need to be negotiated and the rock here is very unstable and loose. The good guys at Trekmates were prepared and helped everyone patiently.

Mama, after a serious cramp scare, was back in action. Ameya, as usual expertly climbed up the rock patches. Myself, I needed to use the rope at a couple of patches. We were all a bit discomforted by our bulky bags but managed to climb without any difficulty. However the group’s speed gets slowed down by rock climbing. About ten or so of us however moved ahead and finished the nali part only to find some more climbing was to be done, some of it on loose soil with some rock patches (easier ones) again thrown in for good measure.

Once on top of Harischandragad, the advance party rested, gorging on snacks (Chivda! Bakerwadi! Biscuits!) The views were fantastic but clarity was not good due to wintry haze. We rested for a while but getting restless after some time we decided to move on. There was one more climb after which we got on the top near Konkan Kada. The kada, of course is the highlight of the fort and needs to be experienced from the edge - words can’t do enough justice!

The remaining group took quite some time to reach us and we had ample time to take photos and enjoy the sunset. The weather was great all the time and this year’s late monsoon ensured that there was enough greenery around. Overall the trek was tiring; the climb is steep and long, especially with heavy bags. It was past sunset when the whole group arrived and the leaders decided to gather some wood for a campfire. From Konkan kada, Harischandreshwar temple and the caves are about half-an-hour away and we trudged exhausted in the dark, our hands full with branches and twigs. Finally we reached near the temple and caves and sat down to make a campfire. Then on songs were sung till dinner arrived.

When I visited the fort about ten years ago, it was less crowded with visitors; since then I had heard stories of littering and noise. Though it was not as bad as I had reckoned, there were enough trekkers around (a few of them behaving as if they missed a disco) and villagers had geared up to serve them (our dinner came from one enterprising villager up on the fort). The caves we stayed in were also fairly clean and rodent-free which might have do something with the villagers again…..

The whole day had been tiring and the earlier plan of getting up early for sightseeing never did materialize. We slept at eleven and got up at seven, fairly refreshed. Seeing that our group had fairly missed few of their deadlines, our trio decided to leave immediately and we were joined by three others on our way down. Me and my trekking companions enjoy our independent hikes; since we are few in number and like the peace and solitude, our route back was enjoyable. The usual route to the fort involves crossing the huge plateau. Even after several years the route is still as beautiful as it was, crossing flower strewn meadows and verdant forests.

We took about three hours to descend; after crossing the plateau we descended to theTolar Khind pass. Along the way we passed a couple of villages who now sit selling tea or nimboo-pani to trekkers (how they are spoiling us!) It was a pleasant surprise to have excellent buttermilk on the way down! Down at around twelve at Khireshwar village (the traditional base for a hike up the fort) we had some batata-poha and waited for a jeep to take us back.

The journey back home was uneventful as usual. As we took a jeep that cruised past the dammed waters around Khireshwar, we took a last look at Harischandragad, discussing plans in future when we will be back. After all there are still a few routes up this formidable fort that are worth exploring.

More photos at the following link.

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Two for two - Shivneri and Hadsar

We make ambitious plans. On any given hike, everyone makes grand plans to climb two, maybe three mountains or take a longer, harder route. There are also enthusiastic participants before any given hike actually occurs; people who promise to come and back out at the last minute. So this weekend, there were only two of us (myself & Lobhus) left with some ambitious plans to do two or say three forts on a single day. We were really desperate to go because we hadn't gone as yet on a monsoon hike and though it must have been the dryest July for decades, we decided take a chance on rain.

We decided to go to Junnar since we thought once we are on a higher altitude, rain or no rain, it would still be pleasant. We caught an 11 o’clock bus from Bombay Central depot, which though labelled as an express, halted at every other place, right up till five in the morning.

First on our agenda was Shivneri, which we could just about see in the dark sky. We started on the tar road behind the bus stop which goes to the fort. However we got bored of walking on the road and decided to take a short cut. A short wall has been built around the fort by the locals and there is a breach in the wall from where we entered and started on a payvaat. It took us first to a cave which was a dead end, then we went back and took another direction but eventually we had to jump over the aforementioned wall and took to the tar road again.

Fortunately we had skipped much of the tar road and soon we were at the steps that take one into the fort complex. Unlike most forts visited, Shivneri is well maintained with cemented steps, tended gardens and reconstructed gates. On the top there are several ruins to see, most important of which is the birth place of Shivaji Maharaj. It was about seven in the morning and the fort was very quiet and peaceful.

To return, we decided to hunt for the alternative route which a local had told us about. This starts from a monument just before the birthplace monument and goes on the side facing Junnar town, past a really dirty tank (it stank!). The route goes through the woods and then descends downwards over the cliff face. Metal rods have been inserted for support over rock cut leg holds. It’s definitely a route for trekkers and in pouring rain, might be a bit tricky. The route descends down into the forest and reaches the newly built boundary wall at the bottom, over which you need to jump to reach the road to Junnar. This way saves you from walking most of the tar road. Looking back, it was almost impossible to figure the route among the cliff wall.

Back at the bus-stop we had just missed the 8:20 bus to Hadsar village and had to wait nearly for an hour for the next one to arrive. Any bus to Rajur-1 or Nimgiri goes via Hadsar village and the journey is about 20 minutes or so. From Hadsar village, one has to walk on the road towards a well from where the route climbs up to a plateau. From the plateau the path moves towards the left and one has to go around the mountain to reach the rock cut steps to the fort.





There is not much left on Hadsar fort but the entrance is impressive. It is squeezed between two walls of the mountain and a long series of steps takes one through a couple of darwajas till one reaches the grassy summit. The fort is divided into two unequal halves and the larger one contains water tanks, a small temple and a pond, where we decided to take a dip. Later we realized that the villagers took the buffaloes into this pond, but then it was getting a bit hot and the water was cool!

We went up to the highest point which is behind the temple from where one can see the entire fort. Adjoining is a steep ridge that takes one to Hatkeshwar plateau (which we had planned to do, but looked like a really long hike). We could also see one of Nimgiri forts. Since it was a hazy cloudy day, we could not see far, but we could recognize Shivneri, Jivdhan and Chavand forts among the shadowy shapes on the horizon!

After the dip, we had theplas for lunch and made our way back to Hadsar village where we had again missed our bus but jeeps come from time to time. In a stroke of luck we got an empty one – a pleasant contrast from the usual cramming that happens in these rides! We returned to Junnar to wait for a long bus ride back home. There was hardly any rain worth mentioning but on our way back it rained not once, but twice. Oh, the weather gods can be cruel!


More photos at: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/upsidedownv/2008junnar

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Night Hike to Nakhind

I had to post this account months ago, but some how it just did not happen on time…..

I have never been a fan of night trekking but I believe in trying new things. So I agreed upon a night trek in May hoping that a night on any hill would be cooler than one in sweltering Mumbai. Since we were totally against walking in the sun, our options were limited as the hike had to be nearby and not too long. So we settled on to Peb or Nakhind or both (we are always ambitious in our intentions!)

There were only three of us on the hike and we took the last local to Karjat and alighted at Neral station, which was expectedly deserted. Now though I have been to this hike many times, we always make some common mistakes. Predictably we had trouble searching the way in the dark and after many detours and dogs howling about in the night, we found ourselves on the right road.

It was a pleasant night with an almost full moon (one day before pornima). There was a slight breeze but in no time we were all sweating with the climb. We reached the first TV tower and then the second and we knew we were on the right way. However as we started moving towards the col between Peb and Nakhind, we lost our way and we took some wrong turns. After almost an hour of mad exploration and discussions, we turned back and fortunately on our way back we got hold of the right path.

I found the night hike experience very surreal. It’s deadly quite and a bit eerie, everything is dipped in darkness and there’s only your torch to guide you. It does bring memories of….well, those children in the dark getting caught by leopards or those horror camping movies!

We made it up to the point between Peb fort and Nakhind and rested a bit, deciding where to go. We were drenched in sweat by then and I had never sweated so much on any trek. We decided to go to Nakhind and then made up on the steep incline to the right. The narrow ridge walk soon became forested and the eerie impression strengthened. We reached the high point but decided to go further. As there was nothing to see we decided to turn back after 30 min of more walking and came back to some rocks where we watched the sun rise. The view was nice with Prabal, Chanderi and Peb forts around us. During this we didn’t even realize that we dozed off and soon we were on our way back.

Walking down was quick but we should have been quicker. My shoe was biting me and soon by seven the sun was beating down upon us. By eight we were down and almost roasted by the sun but still alive to catch the 8:30 train which was late. We entered the platform and the train door just appeared before us and surprising we had seats. No waiting time for the train, just made this experience even nicer!

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