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Wednesday 28 August 2013

Ghangad: Far (Very Far) Away From The Maddening Crowd

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Last weekend for a change, I wanted to venture out to an area where I had not hiked much. Ghangad is a small fort located some 40 kms from Lonavala, near the backwaters of Mulshi dam. A tricky rock patch requiring equipment was the reason this fort had not been attempted but thanks to an enterprising trekking group, ladders and ropes have been installed making things much easier. With that information in hand I was off in the morning to Lonavala, waiting for the rest of my group, who were coming from Pune.

Approaching Ghangad from Ekole village


The drive to Ghangad is probably one of the best in the country: the road is smooth, the greenery around is enticing and best of all in the rains, the area is completely misty for long stretches. However this dream ride only lasts till Ambavne – this village is near Korigad fort and now more importantly near Amby valley. After this point, a bifurcation takes you towards Bhamburde village and since there are no high-flying city types coming this way, the road quality really dips down.

The route goes through Salter village (near Telbaila massif) and finally to Bhamburde; at places the road was so narrow that it was difficult to imagine an ST bus on it! Bhamburde village rests idyllically in what seems like a valley surrounded by large hills; the smallest of these is Ghangad.

We walked from Bhamburde to Ekole village at the base of Ghangad. The fort is quite small and one can finish it in an hour and a half from the base. Initially a large ugly track leads to the forest; once inside the forest, a more natural small path takes one to the temple of Garjai devi.  A useful map of the fort  is posted here. Moving ahead one reaches a col between Ghangad and a giant neighbouring hill. From here one can see the hills falling steeply into Konkan.

Valley behind Ghangad fort


A short walk takes one to the fortification of the hill. Once inside, you move to a rock face where a ladder has been kept. Inspite of the ladder, in the rainy season, there is a tricky step one has to negotiate; after that its a steep but safe route to top across crumbling steps and bastions. On the top there are a few tanks and two bastions; its the views that are marvellous. The hills around enclose a plain area at the edge of which across Ghangad stands the double peaked massif called Telbaila; all of this eventually falls down into Konkan and the deep valleys are fantastic. One can also see Sudhagad (its nearer to Telbaila); on my previous treks to Sudhagad, I have always wondered at these valleys and where they go; now I know!

Descent was quick and in no time the hike was done! On the way back, our road was still misty even in the afternoon, but as one nears Lonavala, the maddening crowds near Bushy Dam make one cringe! When will Indians know how to enjoy and respect nature?!


Travelling: ST buses ply between Lonavla and Bhamburde (apparently twice a day, once in morning and once in afternoon). Best way would be to have your own transport. Cars can go beyond Bhamburde, right upto Ekole village. One can also descend down into Konkan (near Sudhagad) via Ekole village (4-5 hours route)

https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/Ghangad?authuser=0&feat=directlink

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