INDEPENDANCE WEEKEND TREK - PART 1: SIDDHAGAD FORT

The Independence day weekend trek is been a tradition and as time passes, I wonder if I will be able to continue it in the coming year. A sign of growing older is becoming more and more aware of time and its passing. Time was not much on our side at the beginning of this trek itself. After lot of planning I was to come from Bombay and others from Pune. We were to meet at Karjat station and then head towards Murbad for our trek to Siddhagad and Ahupe Ghat. However at Karjat station due to phone connectivity issues we lost about half an hour and thus started late.

Climbing Siddhagad

Years earlier, I had trekked to both Siddhagad and Ahupe Ghat separately. The former was an arduous hike and I remember we were pressed for time (those being the days of catching the only ST bus in the vicinity) and we did not manage to reach the top.  This time I thought, I might be luckier. From Karjat, the road passes Kashele (from where one takes a diversion for the Bhimashankar trek) and then Mhasa. From this small town, we took a road that almost runs parallel to the main mountain range of Sayhadris. Now from memory I remembered the base village being Narivli but as we got on the way there was a signpost announcing the road to Siddhagad. Happily we took and drove down a bad road (for which you do pay a toll as there is a forest fee for the protected forests of Bhimashankar). This led us to the hamlet of Bhorwadi from where the road continues to Siddhagad – not the fort but a waterfall that attracts crowds nowadays. We parked the car in the hamlet and walked on the kuccha road for some time only to realise the direction was wrong. We returned back and enquired in the village and finally got on the right road thanks to a helpful village woman. We were again running – or should I say climbing – against time!

The way from Bhorwadi is not well frequented; compared to the cars going to the waterfall (at least a couple every half an hour) there was not a soul on this route. The route climbed through the forest and a dry waterfall bed eventually to land on steep slopes. We had to negotiate some tricky small rock patches which were wet and slightly exposed. Eventually we made our way to an precarious stairway where most of the steps were almost worn out.

Siddhagad is square massif with a plateau above which there is a further climb to the summit. It took us about couple of hours roughly to get to the plateau. The base village of Siddhagadwadi was a few more minutes walk across serene rice fields. We met some villagers on the way who had come from the other route from Narivali village. They informed us that the route to the top of the fort was not well frequented and also that the village had very few people. Most of the villagers had migrated and only eight houses were inhabited.

The weather was volatile on the trek; cloudy skies gave way to sunshine only for the clouds to eventually gather back and rain. When we were at the village waiting for a guide, the rains started. We had initially planned to trek from Siddhagadwadi all the way to Ahupe, climb down the ghat and then return. However as we started from the wrong village we had not choice but to return back to it and our car parked there. The way back would be tricky in heavy rain so we were wondering whether to make the final climb or not. There are some ancient ruins on the plateau which we could see but we decided to try tackling the summit.

Siddhagad fort from Bhorwadi village (base)

The final climb was steep through thick forest. There was mist around so we could hardly see anything around. We had apprehensions about making it back in time and in daylight so we decided to go only up to a cave half way up. The village guide we took told us there had been some landslides and some rocks falling down in the earlier month. Just the news to dissuade enthusiastic trekkers!

When I had come several years before to Siddhagad, a sanyasi baba used to stay in the cave and villagers would visit him. Unfortunately the holy man had died a few years earlier and so the visitors had stopped. The guide showed us a small Samadhi for the holy man. A little ahead was the rock cut cave – it smelled a bit dank like all caves do but otherwise it was clean and a good place to sleep should one want to camp.

The top fort of Siddhagad once again eluded us as we decided to head back. When we started descending from the plateau the rain was a thing of past and it was shining clearly. The views around were great; we could see Gorakhagad and Macchindragad pinnacles in a distance. Descending was quicker than expected and we made it back to the village in good time. With time on hand we decided to see what the fuss was about regarding the famous waterfall.

Unfortunately the beautiful waterfall is best avoided. Litter and garbage were all around. The area around the waterfall literally reeked of alcohol; you could smell cheap beer in the air. Once again I wondered how blessed we are with such natural beauty and how undeserving most Indian are about it.

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ASWAL KHIND TREK

Starting trek from Kamthe Village

‘Aswal Khind’ literally means ‘bear pass’ and the name seems to have originated from bears infesting the thick jungles around. While the forest in itself is as dense and wild as imagined, the pass itself is not very obscure and seemed like a well-trodden past. I don’t know if bears are present in this part of the Western Ghats anymore but I could certainly imagine wild cats prowling in the dark!

I had heard about Aswal Khind in reports of a route from Raireshwar plateau to Konkan. Most visitors had mentioned walking in the wilderness of the large plateau till they came to the end which is characterized by a hole in the rock (Nakhind), from where a difficult route ascended to Aswal Khind. Many did not make the route or others just got lost even before Nakhind. With this kind of info, Aswal Khind gained stature in my eyes. Definitely something worth visiting; however this was not that hike.

Me and my regular trekking companions went with a group from Pune who was organizing a ‘pilot trek’ to Aswal Khind (though with 45 people I don’t know why the term ‘pilot’ was used). However we would be only doing this pass which connected Kamthe village in Konkan to Kudali village on the plateau (somewhat near Bhor). The trek reminded me of a previously well-cherished hike to Dhavle Ghat which is nearby. They shared similar characteristics though Dhavle was much more wilder!

The trek starts by reaching Kamthe village which has to be reached from Poladpur (also the place from where road to Dhavle starts). From Kamthe a well trodden path climbs steadily upwards going closer and closer to the mountains that surround this village on almost three sides. In the morning, when we started, rain was falling and the waterfalls around were a wonderful sight.

Route through thick vegetation

A guide is necessary as the hills are densely forested and in monsoon, most of the tops are hidden, making identification difficult. The rain stopped as we climbed but save for a clearing at one level, most of this trek is well shaded, as the path goes into lovely forests. Our guides had bought their sickles to cut through the dense growth. Waterfalls guzzled all around us and we often crossed them merrily. As we went higher, the trek became steeper. Rain started falling and mist enveloped us. After about three or so hours, we finally reached the top of Aswal khind.

Looking back at the route from Kamthe from a waterfall

At the pass, there are huge boulders on which the guides were sitting as we huffed and puffed up the slope. They told us that on the right was Raireshwar with the Nakhind point but of course it was hidden now in clouds. The way ahead moved downwards and would go through a leech-infested forest. Socks were hiked up with trouser hems stuffed inside. We would now be walking without pausing till we cleared the forest. The route here was unclear and the forest floor was full of fallen leaves. After about 30-40 minutes we reached a stream after which the forest cleared. Crossing the stream I looked back to see the mountains of Raireshwar, their peaks still hidden in clouds. But the mist had cleared and I could see a depression between the forested hills where Aswal Khind lay.

Eventually we walked a bit more and had to cross the same stream again; this time it had grown in size and we had to be careful. A few dogs who had been following us from the start were scared and my cousin had to carry them in his arms. We eventually reached the road which goes to Kudali village. Our bus was waiting there but a tire was flat. While the driver took care of that we gave our tired bodies a soothing hydrotherapy session in the flowing stream nearby. Coming back was a pain as to reach Bombay, we had to reach the main highway to Bhor (vehicles as well as ST buses available), catch a bus to Mahad (2 hours) and then a long ride to Bombay on a bumpy road (shame to call the Mumbai-Goa road a national highway!) The aches and pains of that long tiring journey are gone and only memories of the lovely Aswal khind remain; it was much tamer than expected but enjoyable nevertheless!

Raireshwar from other side of Aswal Khind

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RAJGAD IN RAINS

RAJGAD IN RAINS

Suvela Machi, Rajgad Fort

Rajgad was the first capital of Shivaji’s kingdom. Fittingly it is an impressive fort that boasts of wonderful fortifications that are still intact. Winters are generally a better time to appreciate all the various points on this spread out fort. However I have always visited it in rains; the first time we were so soaking wet and cold, we had no energy to explore. Luckily this time was different.

Rajgad is easy to approach from Pune. On NH4, about 20 kms from Pune lies Nasrapur phata. From here the road accesses most of the villages that can be used to climb Rajgad. There are multiple routes to the fort but the one that seems to be most widely used is from base village of Gunjavne. The easy accessibility means loads of trekkers; we were greeted with a group of about a hundred kids readying for their day on the fort!

The climb from Gunjavne is well marked and even if you miss your way a little bit, you’ll get back on the right track! Initially the route climbs gently and soon enters the forests around the fort. The weather was luckily good with light rain and mists, so that it was reasonably cool. As one proceeds the route starts getting steeper. We soon caught up with the kids who were struggling a little but very enthusiastic nonetheless! Eventually a small flat traverse takes one towards a steep rocky patch which has railings for support. After the patch you enter a small ‘chor darwaja’ and you are suddenly inside the fort.

En route from Gunjavne village via Chor Darwaja

At the top there was fog everywhere making it difficult to get bearings. Luckily there are signposts at various points. The fort is roughly divided into three ‘machis’ – Padmavati, Suvela and Sanjeevani. In middle of the fort at a height is the ‘Balle Killa’ – the highest point. Our route took us to Padmavati machi, which is flatter and has a temple, some ruins and a lovely water tank. We climbed in about 2 hours or so and we had time to wander so we decided to go to Suvela machi.

Water tank at Padmavati Machi

Rajgad, like Sinhagad, is a source of endless joy and wonder for Punekars who make regular visits. Even on a Saturday there were hundreds of people; yet the fort is large enough to be enjoyed in relative peace and quiet. We met relatives during our walks. Another trekker introduced himself as someone who had been to Rajgad almost eighty times! A couple of septuagenarians were climbing as fast as seventeen year olds!

Double walled fortification on Suvela Machi

I had missed exploring Rajgad on an earlier hike almost ten years ago. This time walking to Suvela machi reinforced the impression that I had missed something special. Built on a long ridge by Shivaji Maharaj on the eastern side of the fort, Suvela Machi consists of a double wall along on both side so the ridge. The fortifications snake their way along the ridge and walking on the walls was an unforgettable experience. The mist cleared from time to time making us gasp at the beauty of the fort and its surroundings. Water tanks, hidden doorways, tunnels – there was so much to explore! I would definitely like to come back to Rajgad, perhaps by another route which will allow us to explore another fascinating part of this fort. After all there’s got to be so much more for a fort that merits eighty visits!

Small tunnel at Suvela Machi

Rajgad fort walls - Suvela Machi

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GHERSURGAD FORT

Early September saw rains lashing my part of the world and the weekend seemed to be conducive for a wet hike. So on a Saturday I set out by train to Khopoli to join my uncle and cousin for a trek to Gherasurgad or Surgad as it’s also known. I had read about this lesser known fort only from online blogs and so was excited to visit it.

From Khopoli, the road was initially quite bad (even though the Imagica theme park lies along this route). Luckily the road improved and turned picturesque as we drove towards Pali. From Pali we joined the Bombay-Goa road and ahead of Nagothane took a detour (from Khamb) to the village of Vaijnath that lies at the base of the fort.

Surgad is not a high fort (about 1800 ft) and lies detached from the main Sahyadri range. It is surrounded by thick forest on all sides. We started climbing around eleven; the rains had vanished but it was mildly cloudy. Further it had rained earlier so everywhere there was the pleasant sound of running water; soon even our path had become a mini-waterfall.

The route was beautiful and shaded by trees. Skipping across lush paddy fields, we entered a forested route. The route eventually reaches a plateau. First there is a rocky clearing and then one re-enters the forest, reaching a point where there is a board announcing directions. A path demarcated by stones on either side, moves towards the cliffs which gave natural fortification to the fort. A gully with cliffs on either side has to be negotiated and there is a patch that is tricky when wet. There must have steps at one time here but they have been blasted. Remnants of steps lie on the top and one reaches an idol of a Hanuman with moustaches.

From here on one can explore the fort. We stopped at this point to gaze views of the other side of the fort; we could see the river Kundalika snaking through the green countryside. The top of the fort was covered with really tall grass, it was higher than our heads at places and completely obscured the path. However it was beautiful and peaceful at the top with interesting relics of the path; an impressive bastion, a carved tablet, a small ‘lingam’ of Shiva, some water tanks....

The fort somehow reminded me of Sudhagad which is not too far away from Surgad. Both forts have such beautiful surroundings that they are an absolute treat to visit and explore in the monsoon; I highly recommend them to novice trekkers. We spent some time by the edge of the fort, having lunch and listening to the breeze drifting through the overgrown grass and that is the way I will always remember this trek!

Overgrown grass on Ghersurgad

Link to pics:

https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/Gherasurgad

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INDEPENDANCE DAY WEEKEND HIKE (PART 2): MARKANDYA & JAWLYA FORT

After finishing Dhodap, we spent some minutes in Hatti village with a very hospitable old man who had a small shop. He offered us tea and told us about the origins of his people. After Rana Pratap’s defeat, many of his men got scattered all over India. One group came to Nasik region and settled in the area around Dhodap. When we left Hatti toward Babapur (our next destination village), we often stopped to ask directions and noticed the different features of the people in the villages.

From Babapur we had to make our way to the pass between Markandya and Rawlya-Jawlya. At this pass there is a tiny temple with a resident ‘baba’ who charges 100 bucks to oversee parked vehicles. From this point one has choice of going either of the two mountains. We decided to tackle Markandya first as the route was shorter and there was shelter at the top.

Since this a regular pilgrimage place, the route is well marked. Villagers are trying to make steps and at places have put up railings. It was all a work in progress as some construction material was strewn around. Luckily once we reached the upper plateau, there was only a small path and there seemed to be hardly anyone on top. There is a ‘mutth’ on the plateau where another ‘baba’ resides. It is a comfortable place to stay though the villagers are a little less hospitable; they only relented after ‘baba’ permitted us to stay. The plateau is huge and the top is quite a steep climb up. Since we did not have time, a couple of us went half-way up to a small Shiva temple. The actual temple of sage Markendeya is quite further up and was hidden in clouds.

Next morning we got up shivering with the sound of heavy rain on the tin roof. Luckily in some time, the rain receded and we set out in the mist. It took us barely 30-40 minutes to get down and by that time, the weather had changed. The sun was coming out....

Rawlya fort seen from Markandya plateau

At around 8.30 after keeping our heavy bags inside our car, we set out with necessities to go to Jawlya fort. A steep climb takes on to the vast plateau of Rawlya-Jawlya. Once on the grassy top, views of the countryside including Markandya are fantastic. We had no guide but a cowherd on the way gave us directions. The plateau of Rawlya-Jawlya is quite big and uninhabited save for one tiny settlement that lies between the two peaks. We saw no people but lots of cows and buffaloes, grazing their way to glory. And shitting a lot too! Soon our trails got lost and we had to walk through sticky mud trying to avoid cow-dung generously littered on the way! The cowherd had told us to go towards the right so we tried to follow that direction. But the mist was closing in and visibility turned low. Luckily we kept on moving to the right near the base of Rawlya and soon found a clearly marked, albeit muddy path. This path goes on the side of Rawlya until finally the hamlet comes into view.

The hamlet was basically just two huts. The villagers make ‘khava’ from the milk which is used in Indian sweets. We dragged our feet through muck to reach the huts where we asked for a guide but no one wanted to come. With no choice but to proceed without a guide we asked for directions and moved towards Jawlya which was half-hidden in clouds. There were clear trails but as we moved on, they became faint and we were not clear where we would start ascending.

Fortunately we met a villager who had brought his cows up to graze. After a little cajoling he agreed to take us to the fort. With a sickle he began cutting undergrowth and started on an ascent that was steep and obviously muddy (a feature of this place!). A path soon became visible but we would never have found it easily by ourselves. A short steep ascent led us to a small clearing in front of the rock face. Again, we would not have guessed one has to climb here. It was a thrilling rock climb, slightly exposed but no rope was needed. We eventually reached crumbling steps and remnants of a doorway. 

The doorway almost opens upwards like a hatch would; on top is a grassy expanse with almost no remnants of fortification. We walked on the small top towards to a set of tanks. It was beautiful with lovely views all around; in the distance we could make out our old friend Dhodap! One day maybe I would do the original plan of a cross country hike from Dhodap  and combine it with Rawlya – the other twin fort needs a rope.

Water tanks on Jawlya Fort

Coming back was easy and leisurely. We had done the trek in good time; it was one o’clock and we had a long flat walk back. The rain had stopped and so the mud was less squishy now! We walked back admiring the lovely quiet plateau, now revealing itself and the views around as the mist had completely lifted now. Soon we were back near our starting point; Markandya was in sight with its temple on the summit – eye-catching orange in colour. Walking back I was thankful to the rain gods for giving us views that would remain in our memories for years. The weekend was almost over now but what a weekend it was!

More pics at: https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/DhodapJawlyaMarkandyaTrek

Directions: From Nasik, take the Bombay-Agra highway and take a diversion for Vani. From this road, one takes a diversion for Babapur, beyond which lies the pass for Markandya and/or Rawlya-Jawlya.

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