OLD HAUNTS AND NEW FAVOURITES: PEB FORT TO MATHERAN

Matheran as seen from Peb fort

Of all the hikes I have done so far, the one I have done most often is the hike to Matheran from Peb fort. If you are from Bombay, you can’t have it easier: a local train drops you at Neral station, from where you can climb to Peb fort and return back. If you want a tougher experience, traverse the fort and cross over to Matheran hill station following the railway tracks.

For a change, this time a hotel (and not an ordinary one!) had been booked so we could stay over and rest for the night. Though the Peb fort route to Matheran was not our original plan, thanks to someone’s suitcase and laptop, we ended up splitting and choosing this trek. We started off from Neral station towards the countryside. Once this was free land, now it was divided and demarcated by fences causing some detours. However the path is well marked by villagers with painted arrows. For directions otherwise, follow a chain of electric towers in the beginning. The route then ascends steeply for about half an hour through thick jungle which thins out by the time you reach the top.

‘The top’ is actually a sharp narrow ridge leading towards the fort and the views of both the valleys on either side are great. This is tricky during heavy rains as the wind gets pretty intense but we were lucky to have a cloudy sky and at most a drizzle. A few rocky patches gave nightmares to the lone brave girl on this trek but she was a superstar that day (with a little help of course!). The route goes along the cliffs to reach a wall where a shaky but sturdy metal ladder gives access into the fort.

The peak of the fort is a small temple which requires another steep climb but we skipped it and went traversing the grassy top, enjoying the flat walk with fabulous views. We met a group of young trekkers who had also come from Mumbai (Vidyalankar classes trekking club!) who had not been here before. Amidst their fawning over my gear (the bag, the shoes...my dying, worn-out canvas Hunters!) and request for directions, I quite felt the veteran! Two more ladders and we descended the fort with Matheran before us.

Another long walk took us to the Matheran massif:  a V-shaped depression between the mountains is a marker and the wind here is always strong. We traversed from the side of the massif till we reached the final ladder and then onwards steps took us to an arch that announces the railway track is reached. This point is below Panorama Point, the northernmost edge of Matheran hill-station. We separated from the trekking group and started our long trudge to the centre of the hill plateau – Charlotte Lake.

Matheran was made into a summer retreat by the Britishers in the late 1800s and the place is littered with crumbling properties. One such property, Barr House, has being lovingly restored by the good people of Neemrana Resorts (who are now experts at this kind of thing) and the result is the immaculate Veranda in the Jungle. If you have the cash, then this is the place to stay in Matheran. Monsoon is off-season so rates are more affordable. It was my first time and I highly recommend the place!

Finally our hike ended after a six kilometre trudge across Matheran (from rail tracks to hotel) and it was wonderful to unwind with friends after a long, long trek (it took us six hours from base with numerous stops!).  At night, we had Continental dinner in a room with high vaulted ceilings and Colonial furniture, with music playing nearby. Inside the main dining room, the lights were off and other visitors were having food in candle-light. Next morning we would sit in the large veranda of the property, sipping tea, looking out at the mist-covered jungles of Matheran, so serene and beautiful. Moments like this may never happen again – all these friends together at one place, and there couldn’t have been a better way to spend a weekend!

For more pictures here's the link: https://picasaweb.google.com/upsidedownv/MatheranViaPebFort?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOPc6O2omIy4YQ&feat=directlink