RINGING IN A NEW YEAR AT RATANGAD

The first weekend of 2013 and already out on a trek! A trek that almost did not happen as a group of seven whittled down to three! And what a shame those people did not make it because the weather was so good, the scenery was so spectacular and the area was so bereft of crowds.

Travelling to Ratangad is like going back in time; this is the third time I’ve done the trek and the markers and turns are almost etched in mind, despite the large gaps between the visits. Situated at the edge of the ghats, towering over Bhandardhara lake, Ratangad or ‘jewel among forts’ is a wonderful trek, albeit one that involves a long journey.

And we journeyed long, having reached late in the evening at Bhandardhara lake and missed the boat across to Ratanwadi. We had to drive in darkness on narrow roads and took shelter in the village of Udhavne (below Alang). At dawn the cold was crisp and deadly and getting out of sleeping bags was almost a torture. But we were again on the road and reached Ratanwadi, which has changed and boasts public toilets and a small parking lot now.

The trek then was the usual (to what I did back in 2008 and faithfully recorded on this blog). Arrows directed us through the dried stream beds, the forest and up the ladders (these too were new). At the top in the cave a village couple serves hot rustic meals on demand. While they were busy cooking for us, we took a tour of the fort. The views of Ajoba and neighbouring hills are awesome as always. Skirting tanks and old broken doorways, we made our way to the ‘nedhe’ or hole in the summit, where a wonderful wind blew and connected the two sides of the mountain. Looking back I’ll wonder how idyllic it all was, a Sunday away from the hectic city life.

But time ticks away and we had to be back to take in our lunch: hot bhakris, a delicious vegetable of potatoes and pulses and the pièce de resistance- a hot spicy ‘thecha’ of freshly ground chillies. After the lunch it was a quick descent because we had spent more time than expected wandering on the top. At four we touched base near the car and were ready to speed away back to home.

Surreal that moments ago we were on top of the world, in a hole in the mountain. A moment in time to remember and treasure for the three of us who happened to be fortunate there and then!

Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/Ratangad2013

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ALANG-MADANGAD – COMPLETING THE HOLY TRINITY

On top of Alang fort

For any seasoned hiker in Sayhadris, it is not Kalsubai, the highest mountain of the state that holds the greatest challenge. Rather, its Kalsubai’s formidable neighbours, that strike the serious trekker in awe. I am talking about the holy trinity of Kulang, Madangad and Alang – the three forts that rise mightily and involve heavy-duty trekking.

Having climbed Kulang several  years ago, Alang and Madangad had been on me and my brothers’ wish lists but not having done serious rock-climbing, they had remained out of reach. Now that one of us knew how it was done, we were raring to go.

Except our adventure sputtered right from the start in characteristic fashion of people dropping in and out of the hike (myself included!). Finally we were reduced to three when we boarded the last local to Kasara. A jeep had been arranged to take us to Ambewadi, the base village. Arriving at five, we slept for an hour and got up groggily in cool morning. A little before seven we started for the far off but clear sharp silhouettes of Alang and Madangad.

After a walk across dried fields, we started climbing a forested hill. The climb took us over a ridge falling from Alang. After a flat walk, the incline took us by surprise but once on top, we had to take a long traverse through thick forest that was cool and green. The long traverse soon ended and it was back to climbing on a steep incline over loose soil and scree. Most of the climb was among tall karvi shrubs. Finally we reached a series of broken steps that gave the first indication of a fort on the gigantic mountain.

The steps lead to cave from where, one can continue either to Alang or to Madangad. We decided to first do the latter and took a right, traversing another long stretch of the mountain edge. Finally one reaches the point between Alang and Madangad from where one can see the Ghatgar-Bhandardara catchment area. Moving on, we started traversing the smaller Madangad mountain till we finally reached the steps of this crumbling fort.

The steps at Madangad are steep and large, climbing like a staircase to heaven. The staircase twisted and turned until it finally reached a blown off face where our first rock climb (about 30m I think) started. This was my first big rock climb and went off smoothly. On the top more steps continued till we reached a broken entrance that led to the grassy top. Madangad has a small, handsome top – it’s a small, slanting area bounded on all sides by steep edges and gives fantastic views of Alang and Kulang. On top there are few water tanks and a cave.

After sightseeing, it was time to go down and having never rappelled before, I took some time to get into the act. However once I started, it was cool and I felt it was easier than climbing up. Luckily my two experienced companions were well prepared with all equipment and friendly advice!

We made our way back to the cave and after lunch, moved to tackle Alang.  A small rock patch was just a teaser to the main 50m climb which was daunting. My brother negotiated it easily but I had some tense 15 minutes which felt like eternity when I was stuck 30m off the ground trying to get a hold on a almost vertical rock face. It took some time, before all three of us finished this patch and then on we had to climb some more exposed steps before we reached the top.

Alang has a semicircular shape and its flat top extends spectacularly. There are caves some of which are clean and inhabitable. There are also some tanks, most of which hold impotable water. We rested in the cave and cooked and talked about the eventful day. The sun had set by the time we reached the top so we could not see around much but later after dinner we went off to search water and stumbled upon seven impressive water tanks on the fort. 

Alang, Madangad & Kulang silhouettes

In the morning, it was very cold and since I had done a short night tour of the fort, I slept on while my brother went to see the beautiful sunrise.  In the morning we surveyed the surroundings and in the hazy winter light, we could make out Ratangad and Ajoba far off in the distance. Going down we thought would not take much time but I did not have the nerve to rappel down 50m and kept on having false starts. Finally they belayed me down to save time! A few scrapes and bruises down, there was nothing left but to move on! We were behind our time schedule having started around nine and it was noon but we were still descending. Luckily the forest around Alang was shady and going back was easier. By two-thirty we were back at Ambewadi where we had started.

This was my second rock climbing trek, having done Harischandragad by a tricky route. However here the rock climbs were much longer and difficult. While I won’t be the first person to suggest technical climbs in future I did enjoy the thrills of this trek. It was also an appropriate crackling way to end a great year of hiking! Hope the new year brings equally memorable experiences.

Photos at: https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/AlangMadangad?authuser=0&feat=directlink

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MAHABALESHWAR TO RAIRESHWAR

Last month, at the end of monsoon, I stayed at Mahabaleshwar for a couple of days. There at Arthur’s Seat, along with my uncle, we reminisced about our memorable monsoon trek years ago from Dhavle Ghat which lies way below Arthur’s Seat. Right there the germ of returning and doing a similar trek took hold. So three weeks later we were back after negotiating with a local guide for a cross country trek.

Arthur’s Seat was off-limits for some railings maintainence so we descended from Old Mahabaleshwar. A little path from the main temple leads to another deserted temple at the edge of the mountain. From here the plan was to climb down into the valley, climb the huge mountain plateau of Koleshwar, descend and then climb Raireshwar. Next day we would do the same in reverse, with Kamalgad instead of Koleshwar.

Koleshwar

For an overnight trip we had packed a lot and as a result the heavy load impacted our speed. Initially the weather was great with a cool morning breeze (we started at eight). Down in the valley, we crossed the river that feeds the Balkewadi reservoir and walked towards Jor village (which we had visited years ago on that hike).

Koleshwar is another huge mountain plateau that stretches as long as Mahabaleshwar. Climbing it was tiring especially in the sun-exposed parts. However the top was wonderful and large with a variety of scenery: grassland meadows, fern-filled expanses, dense forests. The views were wonderful too. On the large top there is only one habitation where only two (hospitable) families stay isolated from modern life.

Crossing Koleshwar, we soon could see another huge mountain that was Raireshwar. The descent was long, steep and tiring. By the time we reached a reservoir at the bottom, my shoulders were tired and everyone else was equally exhausted. It was four and the huge hill of Raireshwar loomed in front. Climbing was not an option at it would take us another three plus hours with our heavy loads so we decided to take a vehicle towards a motorable road that passes just below the Raireshwar top. From here one has to walk a little, climb some steps and ladders on the final cliff and then walk for a kilometre across to the settlement. By the time we got our vehicle and finished off the steps, it was nightfall and the  moon shined brightly.

Staying facilities at Raireshwar are good: the villagers are ready to house and feed trekkers. There is only one settlement on this vast plateau. The next morning we woke up late from exhaustion and hence skipped over the sightseeing. Kamalgad was also too much to handle (its an equally huge mountain) and so we took another vehicle that took us to Balkewadi dam. From here we planned to climb up to Kate’s Point of Mahabaleshwar.

Starting almost at noon, this was an arduous climb with our still heavy sacks. On a day with little weight this would have been easier but we were panting and puffing in the heat by the time we stood below Kate’s Point. By the time the hike was over (we relaxed by the spring near Kate’s Point where the water was wonderfully cold) we knew this was one of the toughest hikes so far.

Still it was memorable not only for the heat and endurance but also for the beautiful vistas;  flowers were still blooming at the end of monsoon, springs still had some water left, butterflies were flitting around.... The pleasure of hiking around Mahabaleshwar is the unspoilt wilderness around. Nature at its best!

https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/MahabaleshwarToRaireshwar

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BASGAD: BRINGING THE MONSOON TREKKING SEASON TO AN END WITH A BANG!

September is generally not an active trekking month since the rains peter out and festivals dot the calendar. This year’s monsoon being anything but normal, it was surprising that we were out on a trek this late (23^rd). I was up for Malshej or Igatpuri where we would be at a height when we began our trek and I wanted to go to a place I hadn’t visited before. Basgad or Bhaskargad is an off the radar fort near Jawahar town; somewhat near both Igatpuri and Nasik, at the end of the Trimbakeshwar range, its not the easiest place to reach. We drove from Kasara on a bad road to Khodala and then towards Mokhada. A bifurcation from the main road leads to Khoch village (no signpost!) which is at the base of Utwad mountain.

Our guide took us by a less steeper (!) route that climbs a long ridge from Utwad, then traverses this giant mountain to reach the col between Utwad and Basgad. The weather was cloudy and cool and dotted with drooping yellow flowers. When the ascent started it was long and steep. Grassy ridges finally took us onto a level on Utwad from where we would begin a long traverse through thick vegetation. This was a long walk, with ups and downs, often crossing streams on the way. We had started around ten and it was one, when we reached the col between Basgad and Utwad.

The joys of trekking so late in monsoon are mostly due to the flowers. On the col was a lovely meadow with blue flowers scattered here and there. Below the whole valley lay green and peaceful. But there was still another climb to reach the fort. A steep climb took us to the cliffs of the Basgad massif; here again swaths of balsam (terda) flowers. Who could resist taking photos?! Another traverse in the direction of Nasik takes one towards a staircase and further onto a partially buried darwaja. It was almost two thirty by now and a long descent still awaited us.

For descending we came back to the point where the pink balsams grew at the edge of the cliffs. From here a fantastic path alongside the cliffs took us across with views of the valley around. The path descended on a ridge and here the mountain-side was full of more flowers. It was sunny now but the views were gorgeous. In the distance one could easily see Harihar and Trimbak. The descent was along a sharper ridge which would have been a shorter but even more steeper ascent. The long walk continued for next two hours till we reached a dammed lake that we had seen all through the day. As per tradition, we could not but help jumping in!

This is no hike for beginners and one of our novice trekker saw it testing his limits! But to end a good monsoon trekking season, this was a fittingly climactic and gorgeous end.

How to reach: From Kasara, via Khodala towards Mokhada, take a turn at Khoch phata. An easier route would be from Igatpuri to go towards Nirgudpada (base for Harihar) and ask for Dhadyachi-wadi village from where the route is shorter and easier.

Photos at: https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/Basgad

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SUNDAY AT SUDHAGAD

This year’s monsoon has been anything but normal; the continuing rains in September suddenly opened possibilities. After an aborted attempt last year to Sudhagad, I was determined to return. Though I first visited Sudhagad nine years ago, I remembered it as a beautiful and accessible place.

We set out on the Bombay-Goa road but were delayed by bad roads and traffic. The route from Wadkhal Naka however was lovely as ever and we saw a giant rainbow almost ending in a field (wondering if anybody would find a pot of gold there.....). Sudhagad is far; first we reach Pali –a bifurcation ahead of Nagothane on NH-17. From Pali, another 12 km drive to Pachchapur and then some more to Thakurwadi were the road ends.

From Thakurwadi the route is easy and clearly defined, so much so that many groups come here. On Sunday, as expected there was a bus load of amateurs (uncles, aunties, kids, even grandparents!). However we started last and were left fairly in peace.

The route leads to a metal stairway installed by the villagers and then climbs steadily till you reach the crumbling steps of the fort. The area around Sudhagad, especially towards the main range of Sayhadris is beautiful. From the steps one has to climb further to reach the top plateau. Sudhagad top is a big place with arms of the mountain spreading across. All over the top, there are ruins and remnants of the fort.  In between lie ponds and sacred shrines, some small, some big. There is a palace (actually remnants of a house) of Pant Sachiv where one can camp overnight. Ahead is the temple of Bhoraidevi from where one can proceed to the Mahadarwaja which leads to the Dhondsa route (one which I tried unsuccessfully in 2011).

Ahead of the temple is an atmospheric area with small shrines or samadhis littered among the greenery. Around are beautiful vistas; waterfalls cascading from the main range of the ghats, forests on the faraway arms of Sudhagad mountain, deep interior valleys....It was wonderful to wander around and all of us felt like there was not enough time. You could spend a whole day here and despite the trekker traffic, it is still possible to enjoy peace and quiet.

One can also go to the Chor Darwaja from a route bifurcating just before the temple; it leads through a passage in the mountain outside and is quite fascinating.

The journey back was slow and steady; the mists came and went and we walked on the plateau savouring our Sunday pleasures. Here and there dotted among the grass were tiny flowers that probably bloom for a few days. Our idle holiday would also last for a few hours more but for all of us, it was a wonderful outing, made all the more enjoyable for the heavy rains that made our route down the steps a waterfall. A wonderful footnote to a great monsoon trek! Sudhagad (and the valleys around), hopefully we will be back again!

Photos at: https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/Sudhagad2012

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