Saturday Special: Sagargad

Sagargad is a small fort near Alibaug. About 410m high it is an easy fort to climb and luckily does not see much traffic in form of trekkers compared to other places close to Bombay. But a temple and a waterfall nearby are liable to attract people on Sundays; since we had chosen a Saturday wisely we had some peace and quiet for most of the time.

We reached the fort by the way that most trekkers do. Take a train to Panvel (harbour line) and catch a ST bus to Alibaug (good frequency). Get down at Khandala village, about 7 km before Alibaug and start walking towards Siddheshwar muth. The route is mostly flat and partially tarred; cars can go a little further but only till the steps.

We caught our train at 6 and were on our way to the fort a little before 9. The area is quite beautiful; paddy fields give way to a verdant forest. It was cloudy and cool as we walked and on our way we saw a field full of cranes, several birds and colourful butterflies. The steps were easy but in absence of rain we began to sweat. Luckily we saw the beautiful Dhondane waterfall which involves a diversion. The route to the waterfall is along the edge of a hill which might be a bit tricky in heavy rain. The waterfall has a sharp drop and is dramatic. More drama happened when I realized I had lost my phone (for the umpteenth time!).

We returned to the main route that goes to the Siddheshwar muth which involved a little climb. We went beyond the temple to a stream that feeds Dhondane waterfall. Upstream we found another waterfall which was perfectly small and intimate and had a little dunking session. Wet and refreshed now we started towards Sagargad fort which is about an hour’s distance away.

On the way you come to Siddheshwar village but ahead the way is a bit confusing as there are too many trails and not seeing the fort anywhere around can be misleading. There are arrows marked on rocks to help but we still saw one trekking group lost. The fort is actually attached to the Siddheshwar hill at one end; we could soon see it separated by a valley. A beautiful walk lead us towards the fort.

A small climb leads to the fort where there are impressive remains of crumbling walls. One has to climb through a broken part of the wall to get inside the main fort area where there are crumbling structures, an odd water tank or two, crumbling walls and a temple. At the very end of the fort is the Vanartok pinnacle seperated from the fort. The peace and beauty of the fort in monsoon is enjoyable. Sagargad by its name evokes the sea of which you get fantastic views. We could even see an island or two.

The clouds started descending upon the fort soon and rain arrived as we made our way back. Finally a real monsoon hike! The rain died down in some time as we started descending but the mist still remained; luckily we had got all our views. On the way back it started pouring again. After the descent we had a flat long walk to Khandala village but luckily midway we got a small open air tempo that gave us a lift to Alibaug. We stood most of the way (to save our butts from feeling the bumps on the road) and it was a thrilling ride in blistering rain. From Alibaug we managed to change near the bus stop under a rickety shed (it was a feat in that heavy rain!) Dry and relieved I sat in a semi-luxury bus back home looking at the rain outside that had brought so much joy! Felt like a monsoontrekker again!

Pics at: http://picasaweb.google.co.in/upsidedownv/Sagargad?feat=directlink

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Rajmachi version 4.0

It was my fourth time going to Rajmachi. We were just four of us finally going on this trek. Four is among one of my lucky numbers. Would it all come together and create a great hike? The sun that was shining through the windows of the Karjat local seemed to dim my chances. All the rain clouds had disappeared and all the weather forecasts consulted would be proved wrong.

So it was on a clear sunny day that we found ourselves deposited at Kondana village from where we would start our ascent to Rajmachi fort. Most trekkers choose the long but mostly flat route from Lonavala to reach this well-known twin-peaked fort. To avoid the crowds I chose this route; plus there was the attraction of Kondana caves.

I visited the caves after a long time (might be ten years or so) and now there was a board by the Archaeological Survey. There were proper steps at the entrance. As for the caves they seemed to be in the same dilapidated state but I must admit the villagers (who have a stall or two on the way) have kept them clean. A few miscreants have written on the walls but in this country, it could have been worse.

After resting and taking photos we were on our way to the fort. The route goes through the forest ascending steeply at places. Luckily the forest was verdant and the shade was a relief on a hot and humid day. It seemed it had rained before since water drops fell from the trees now and then. The route passes two flat levels but we rested more than often due to the rising heat. However the views kept getting better.

By the time (about three hours since we began) we had reached the Rajmachi plateau and were drenched in sweat and exhausted. Most of us did not even want to climb the fort in front of us. Though we had a laugh about a topless male trekker who needed some ‘support’ according the girls!

We soon made our way to the Rajmachi village; now even a car can reach it on a dry day. Some people had even come on motorbikes; so much for escaping noise and pollution! Excellent village fare is available though we were told to wait for an hour because of the rush. So we decided to tackle one of Rajmachi’s twin forts.

Between the two forts is an old temple. While we were deciding which fort to ascend, we had nimboo pani sold by another enterprising villager. We chose the higher fort and climbed easily the dry steps (in rains it’s more thrilling!). The fort has good walls and even in its ruined state is an impressive reminder of the heydays of Maratha glory. The views from the top were fantastic; Matheran range, Irshal, Karnala, Shirota Lake, Lonavla were seen. We also saw clouds approaching from a distance and by the time we reached the topmost point, we were surrounded by them. Soon nothing was visible and a light drizzle started. It was a wonderful moment that unfortunately didn’t last for long. By the time we started returning, it was clear and sunny again!

Back at the village we had a delicious lunch of rich bhakris, vegetables, pickle and papad. It was almost three when we left and started to go back. It was hot again despite intermittent cloud cover. But descending was much quicker and we had several trekkers making the same trip (including the topless guy who had now covered his modesty with a big hanky). Towards the end we lost our way, got separated and re-united and realized that we were going to another village because of a longer route. Luckily there were a few tiny streams on the way to refresh us. A trudge of two kilometers on the tar road and we were at Kondivde jostling with other trekkers to get a vehicle to Karjat.

It was a tiring trek on account of the sultry weather and it almost did not feel like a good monsoon hike. Just then the rain gods decided to get smart upon us at the last minute. Oh, the irony! Still waiting for a wet, soaked-to-the-skin hike this year!

As usual photos are posted here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/upsidedownv/RajmachiAndKondanaCaves?feat=directlink

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Historic Strides

Pune is close to some of the most historic forts in Maharashtra. So its no surprise that many Puneites go often to Sinhagad fort, which is the closest to the city. Whats a lesser known fact is that many people fit it into their weekend fitness schedules; morning buses leave from the city as early as four at dawn.


Last month I joined my uncle who climbs Sinhagad every fortnight, on a Sunday morning, just to keep fit. A good change from the usual morning walk at the park! We left at around 5.30 for Sinhagad and reached in less than an hour. There was already a line of cars in front of us and the parking space was getting full. Meanwhile the path was full of avid early morning trekkers with their torches, so that a row of lights illuminated the path right up to the citadel on top which itself was barely visible in the darkness.


We started climbing without torches; soon the day began to dawn slowly. Meanwhile as we climbed there were already people descending down. There were people of all ages – children, teenagers, aunties and uncles, grandmoms and grandpas. The climb took us about an hour or so. I was a bit out of breath probably because of a cough; it was steeper and longer than I had anticipated. But when we reached the top at around seven, the sun was shining on the surrounding countryside.


We were rewarded for our efforts by a row of vendors. Dahi, buttermilk, nimboo-pani, cucumber….take your pick! Evidently Sinhagad at morning is very popular and the villagers are using that to advantage. I and my cousin Ameya rambled a bit at the top but we decided to hurry back before it got too hot to descend. For early March, the air was still cool and pleasant.


It was great to see people of all ages trek up the fort. With the amount of visitors involved it was also a surprise that littering was kept to a minimum. My only complaint was that people carry pesky mobiles with music blaring out; the whole mountainside doesn’t want to listen to what you are listening! Stick to etiquette with headphones!


Descending was a quick affair and while the rest of us managed as fast as we could Ameya charged ahead with lightning speed dodging the latecomers who were climbing up in the rising heat. A good morning workout that got finished off with a round of poha and chai at the base village. At it was not even nine in the morning! This was a rare summer hike for me and probably the one that finished so early in the day!

Ameya at Sinhagad

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Walking in Matheran

A Colonial Relic at Matheran

On the long Republic Day weekend instead of doing a long trek, I spent my days walking in Matheran. My trekking bible – Harish Kapadia’s “Trekking The Sayhadris” mentions Matheran as:


“This is a well-known hill station and a paradise for hikers, particularly in the monsoon. It has many routes and one can always spend an enjoyable hiking day exploring these…The soil is red and on top excellent walking paths and a lake are the charms of Matheran.”

The ‘excellent walking paths’ cannot be stressed enough; there are several roads to explore around Matheran, either going deep in to the forest or skirting along the edge.


Since a cottage in Matheran has been in my family, I have been lucky to spend several holidays there over the years and they all have been memorable experiences. After all as my cousin Ameya who accompanied said where else, so close to Mumbai, could one experience such wilderness and yet have basic comforts at hand. The cold wave up in the north blessed us with good weather and early mornings were appropriately chilly.


I mentioned before in my blog that the late rains in 2009 have made all winter hikes great because there is still so much greenery around. Matheran was especially verdant at this time of the year.


Most of the crowds at Matheran indulge themselves in the noisy market which is best tackled only for meals. Some venture to a few popular points around the market or visit Charlotte Lake, Matheran’s primary source of water. If you leave early in the morning (even eight is fine if you can’t always get up early like us!) you can visit most of the points and enjoy the views in peace. We visited Louisa Point and Sunset (Porcupine) Point in the morning and enjoyed the wonderful views of the Matheran range right up to Mallangad near Kalyan. Since I had visited Prabal the earlier weekend, it was nice to view the fort from its more famous neighbour.


One of the evenings we did a long circuit to the south of Matheran. A lot of people go to Charlotte Lake but a few continue beyond. At the end of the Matheran towards Karjat lies One-Tree Hill which along with the adjacent Chowk point gives great view of the valley in between Matheran and Prabal, Irshalgad and the Morbe dam reservoir. We watched the sun set from One Tree Hill which requires a bit of climbing. We continued in moon-light to Rambaugh point and then finally trawled to the market. The route is beautiful for walking with thick forest around, a few old Parsi bungalows here and there in the woods. One of the hill station’s charms, are the old properties which are beautiful even when dilapidated; some, like Barr House near the lake are lucky to be converted into tasteful classy hotels.

 As I walked through Matheran I also thought about all the hikes I have done there; Matheran in rains is always great. There are so many routes up; there’s one going down from almost every point! I am just listing a few that I have done: via Peb fort (Panorama Point), Bhivpuri Hill & Garbat point, Rambaugh Point, Sunset Point, Lord Point (Charlotte Lake), from Dasturi to Neral (not by the metalled road)….;if there are others feel free to let me know – I’ll try them this monsoon!

This post is dedicated to the house in Matheran and to my little furry friend there!

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First hike of 2010 - Prabalgad and Kalavantin pinnacle

I might need to rename this blog since over the past two years I have done probably more winter hikes than monsoon ones. 2009 was particularly dismal due to my work schedule and erratic rains. However 2009’s late rains have meant that all winter hikes are turning out to be great.

The decision to go to Prabalgad was very last-minute. This decision was inspired by my friend Lobhus’ earlier solo hike to the place which in turn was inspired by my brother’s solo sojourn to another place. Since neither I nor my friend Shripati would ever go alone for a hike, just the two of us decided to do the hike.

Prabalgad is a great trek in the rains but most often I have been lost in the forests. So as a winter hike option it seemed right and we could study the directions properly this time. We set out to Panvel by train and then took a bus to Thakurwadi village which goes via the old Bombay-Pune road. (The first two buses leave Panvel at 5.20 and 7.00)

We alighted at Thakurwadi and had to move past various new constructions that have come out in the last few years including a Zola mountain spa and some aesthetically unpleasing houses built by Dharap associates (if you are planning to buy a place here, you should invest your money elsewhere; though the owners’ pads are better landscaped….) Even Salman Khan has a house somewhere around the area!

One has to walk on a private tarred road belonging to Dharap before the climb begins. The well-marked path zig-zags towards the northern end of the Prabal plateau or machi. One the top is the Prabal machi village which though is in nice surroundings, is quite dirty with plastic garbage. On the left is the Kalavantin pinnacle and next to it is the wide expanse of Prabal fort. About half an hour or so from the village one reaches the base of the pinnacle from where wonderfully rock cut steps climb steeply taking one to the top which is a final mass of rocks. The last rock climb is easy for experienced trekkers and the summit has a single flag and great views.

We started our hike around 8 in the morning and had reached the summit around 9:30. We made our way back to the village to tackle Prabal. The Kalavantin pinnacle sees more hikers nowadays; its thrills are easy and fast, kind of like trekking fast-food! The villagers seem to pronounce it more like Harish Kapadia’s book says- Kelveteen; I am not sure which nomenclature is right. Prabalgad on the other receives less visitors but its charms have to be hard-earned. A walk across the machi through bushy forest takes us to the centre of the massif from where a steep path arises. We lost our way once but had a nice walk on the machi, amidst flowering greenery. We had to retrace our path to find a bifurcation (near a large tree) from where thankfully arrows were painted on rocks. A sturdy climb (quite hot around twelve o’clock) took us into the fort. The top is a large plateau comparable to Matheran and is thickly forested. One can ramble around for hours; we went following the arrows to the northern end, where there is a water tank. One can see views of Matheran range and also sight some of the bastions of the fort. At the extreme end a fabulous view of the Kalavantin pinnacle is a must-do.

We started descending around two and had to hurry down to reach by four for a bus back to Panvel. The great thing about Prabal is that it’s so easy to reach from Bombay and yet the seclusion and wilderness at the top is so great. We did not see a single soul at the top of the fort but we did catch sight of a few birds, a couple of grey langurs and a lizard or two. Throughout the hike there were lots of flowers and blooms so that there were bees buzzing by and butterflies flitting about. Truly a great way to spend an idyllic winter day!

As usual photos are on Picasa at: http://picasaweb.google.co.in/upsidedownv/Prabal2010?feat=directlink

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