November Rain: Panhala to Pawan Khind - part 1

What constitutes a winter hike? Would long showers, misty hills, green forests make up a monsoon trek? Lately it seems the definitions of seasons are getting blurred; what else could explain the continuing spells of rain this winter season. However I am not complaining!

There were worries that a planned hike in November from Panhala to Vishalgad would involve some perspiration. However when I set out for a night bus headed to Kolhapur it was cloudy and there was rain on the way. Saturday dawned with wet ground and cloudy skies; fellow trekkers from Pune and Sangli were on time and we set out on a beautiful road to Panhala that was flanked by banyan trees on both sides and sugarcane fields all around.

Panhala is one the least-fort like forts I have been to. From Panhala we set out around eight from Pusati-cha Buruj, down a clearly marked path. Once we were at the foothills we went past a small hamlet along a mucky road (mud was to be a feature on this wet winter hike; our shoes were a mess already within first half hour!). A short ascent suddenly led us to the flat expanse of Mhasai Pathar.

Mhasai Pathar is a long plateau completely flat with long grassy grounds. The open-ness was beautiful and surreal; the vistas all around were just of land and sky. We walked on the plateau for about an hour; it’s a great place to be lost in and must be tricky in monsoons. You are on the right path if you reach the Mhasai devi temple, the lone structure on top. A jeep can make way up to the plateau (we saw a car) but for now the plateau is beautifully tranquil.

At the temple as we had breakfast we caught sight of an eagle having his! Next we had to descend to first of the many villages that line this historic route that Shivaji’s brave legion of warriors undertook one stormy night. Kumbharwadi was the first village we had to reach but we missed our way and reached Bindowdi village instead. A small climb through butterfly infested bushes put us back on the correct path.

First stop was Manglaiwadi; the villagers were all out on the roads, drying out grass so that it was almost carpeted out on the roads. Families were out together, sharing work – scenes of simple village life that underscored hardship. It stressed upon me how their life is tuned to the cyclical nature of seasons.

Meanwhile we moved onto Khotwadi where we had our lunch in an old lady’s veranda. There, on the dung-smeared floor, surrounded by inquisitive goats, we rested ourselves, removed our bags and had a hearty lunch. In front of us the old lady washed her prized buffalo under a tap; she was followed by kids filling in their pots and pans. We came, we ate and we left but that tap continued to spill water ceaselessly.

In the afternoon, the clouds seemed to be gathering force. This time, it looked like the rain would stay. As we moved from wadi to wadi, it was clear that this was a hike of grassy walks. At some places it was thigh high, sometimes plain, sometimes blooming, sometimes dry and black, or wet with earlier rain….Rain when it came started came fast. Soon we were surrounded by mist and it looked as if we were in a monsoon outing.

It rained for a long time, the downpour eventually dissolving to a persistent light drizzle. We passed villages: Kalpewadi, Dhangarpada,….our destination finally in the light of our progress was to be Ambewadi. Most people were tired; my shoulders were sore especially my right one which had been suffering due to long hours on the computer. Ambewadi finally appeared and we just could not wait to get out of our wet clothes and shoes. Just walking through the muddy street of Ambewadi mucked our shoes completely!

Photos available here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/upsidedownv/Panhala?feat=directlink

Read Full Story...

Last days of monsoon trekking

The Aug 15 hike is the peak of my monsoon trekking season; there are always few outings after that generally overwhelming experience. Personally end August and September are a wonderful time to trek when the flowers are out and crowds are thinning in the hills around Bombay. Nevertheless we were just not able to get out this time and soon it was time to bid monsoon goodbye.

Almost every (good trekking) year there is at least one hike to Matheran and this time somehow I hadn’t made it there in the rains. So when the chance came up to go to Matheran for a weekend stay I was upbeat. It had been a bit stressful at work so I was looking forward to some computer-free time.

The last time I wrote about Matheran I had an excellent time walking around. This time too I had wonderful walks in the forest which was still green. Better still, Navratri is the best time to visit Matheran because Gujarati tourists are busy with the festival and the hill station is almost empty and peaceful. Plus as a bonus, in contrast to Mumbai’s sultry heat, Matheran was cool and pleasant. Driving on Saturday from Panvel, we were engulfed in dense fog and as Matheran neared we left the fog behind for partially cloudy skies which meant the views were great from the top.

It has been a wonderful trekking year (after a couple of bad years) with good rains. In between the walks, we would rest in Paymaster Park (which is the highest point in Matheran) which was overgrown with wild flowers and grass. Sitting on a park bench, lazing in the mild sun, thinking about the good times while the air was heavy with the buzz of bees, mating dragonflies and flitting butterflies, I couldn’t have asked for a better way to end the monsoon trekking season.

Incidently when I returned back to Bombay it rained and it continues to on and off.....

Read Full Story...

Mahabaleshwar on my mind: Pratapgad from Kshetraphal

the long ridge to Pratapgad

After a gap of two years the August 15 hike took place this year; the choice as always was the Mahabaleshwar region in the rains. This time Pratapgad and Makarandgad were on the agenda though ultimately only one fort was conquered. I am still recuperating from the after-effects: normal life feels boring and the memories of the weekend seem wispy as if they belong to another age; its probably the fact that we had to travel so far: four hours to Poladpur from Mumbai and then another 30kms to the base village of Kshetraphal.

I had heard about an alternative route to Pratapgad on my winter trek last year with a trekking group. A bit of research showed that a visit to Kudpan village (which has the distinction of being at the border of three districts- Raigad, Satara and Ratnagiri) was a high point. The village consists of three separate wadis, the first of which itself is about 6 kms from Kshetraphal. There is a newly built road connecting the two but due to a confused driver we had to do this on foot.

Exhausted by the walk on metalled road, we reached the first wadi of Kudpan. Outside the village, past the rice fields we walked to a gloriously scenic valley; this is where the Mahipatgad range joins the main Sahyadri range; at this valley lies a beautiful waterfall from where water crashes down, carving out a gorge in the steep valley. From the same valley rises Bhimachi Kathi – a tall column of rock that rises from the valley completely detached yet close to the main wall of mountains. These were sights to remember; absolutely breathtaking!

All that scenic pleasure came at a price because in another stroke of bad luck we took a guide who made us walk back on the tar road towards Kshetraphal. Later we came to know there were routes from Kudpan too. It was after two that we really started ‘trekking’. The route went climbed up from a bell by the side of the road, going up to a ridge which snaked its way ahead. Our guide was left us halfway asking us to hold on to the path which would go along the top of the ridge. Unfortunately it didn’t.

We reached an enclosed valley as mists began to envelope us. The rain began and we were worried since it was past three. Luckily we found a villager who said he would give us a guide from his village but once we neared his house, our ‘weak link’ complained of cramps. We decided to camp reluctantly as the rain intensified.

We stayed for the night in a hospitable villager’s hut; it was clean and comfortable and lights came on after eight. Sleep when it came was welcome and deep; after all we had started at around five from Mumbai. Next day we woke up refreshed, a bit sad that our plans to reach the other fort would not materialize.

We climbed from the valley up onto the ridge. The ridge continued up to a high point where another route came from an adjoining mountain. Here we met another villager who like our new guide made the trek everyday selling milk to eateries in Pratapgad. Life may seem romantic in the villages but it’s definitely not easy.

The route now began to descend a bit through woods until the growth cleared off into grass. Now we could see a long ridge that connected to the far-off citadel of Pratapgad which was obscured in misty clouds. However it was to be clear day; no rain but endless views of valleys on either sides. The route is clear cut but very slippery and hence a bit tricky. We walked for almost two hours on the grassy ridges as they meandered towards the fort; it is one of the most beautiful ridge walks in Sahyadris – I can’t say anything more to do justice to nature’s glory!

A final ascent took us into a forest at the foot hills of Pratapgad. Since it was a bit hot after the climb, we were glad to be inside the cool shade. From here on the presence of plastic wrappers meant that we would soon be near Pratapgad. It was Sunday and Independence day; when we reached the fort, there were few visitors but villagers were ready with their wares. Our guide delivered the milk; some of it had gone spoilt; we bought some food for him but he shrugged off and smiled about the milk.

After the incredible beauty witnessed, the commercialized fort seemed like an anticlimax. Still, the fortification was impressive; a guide lamented on how the state was spending crores on a Shivaji statue in the sea while Shivaji’s forts crumbled under apathy. We made our way to Wada Khumbroshi below the fort by a nice path (not the motorable road) that starts behind the parking bay. At the end there was a small stream in the woods which we just could not resist. Fresh and rejeuvanated we waited for the bus which took us down to Poladpur along a route that stood exactly opposite the long ridge that had taken us to Pratapgad. Seperated by a valley, the ridge stood far-off and gave no indication of a walking route; which was just as well, some things are better off being lesser known secrets. Hope things stay that way because I plan to return.

Read Full Story...

Monsoon at Mahuli

Mahuli is synonymous for me with my college hikes when over-enthusiastic students were in the mood just as the colleges had begun and monsoon was unleashed on the hills around Bombay. Those hikes were over-crowded, hectic and tiring but every year that we went to Mahuli heavy rains were a constant. This year too, after a last minute decision to go to Mahuli, the rain gods delivered!

It was yet another wonderful monsoon hike with great weather, lovely forests, good climbing, splendid views and an invigorating session in beautiful streams. The rain started as a drizzle on the hike but was light enough to give us views of the surrounding countryside and mist-crowned mountains. As we reached the top into the clouds, it began raining heavily and did not stop until we reached down.

The peace and quiet on a Saturday was a welcome relief considering that Mahuli with its proximity to the city must see loads of visitors on the weekends, especially Sundays. The litter at the fort top ruins was a testament to this traffic. Most of the time we were alone until after mid-day a few young trekkers noisily announced themselves.

It was a good hike done with a bit of leisure and other than the sluggishness of a slow train on the way back home, it was a great trek. Revisiting old places seems to be thing for me this year and Mahuli (visited last in 1999) was still holds the charms it always had. I’ll let the pictures do the talking.

The facts:

Mahuli fort (2501 ft)

Nearest rail station: Asangaon

Alternatively from road you can reach Shahpur and take a bus to Mahuli village. The village is 4 kms away from the train station. Walk along the tracks towards the overhead highway bridge and turn left. A metalled road leads to the village and beyond.

Time: 3 hours from Mahuli village

For more information the good people at Trekshitiz have an exhaustive webpage: http://www.trekshitiz.com/EI/EI_DefaultUser.asp?SearchValue=M&FortName=Mahuli&SearchChoice=Alpha

Mahuli fort in clouds

Read Full Story...

The Awesome Beauty of the Bhimashankar trek

Bhimashankar cliffs from Khandas

What makes a perfect monsoon hike? A great place, an interesting route with some thrills thrown in for good measure, great views, the company of friends and above all good weather with lots of rain. It all came together at the end of July at Bhimashankar to make one of the best hikes of the year.

Bhimashankar (3500 ft) is a famous Shiva temple situated between the Malshej and Lonavala regions. Declared a wildlife sanctuary by the state government, it is lies in a beautiful sacred forest. For trekkers it is a long hike with a choice of two routes: the ‘treacherous’ tricky Shidi ghat or the long, arduous Ganesh Ghat. We had the good fortune of doing both in a day.

We took a local to Karjat and met my uncles from Pune in a perfect stroke of timing. But we almost missed the 8:30 bus to Kashele from where private jeeps and ricks take one to Khandas, the base village.

From the moment I stepped outside my house, it was drizzling and I knew it was going to be a wet hike. It was raining in Karjat and at Khandas, dark clouds were above us shrouding the mountains; the row of cliffs was adorned with a row of gushing waterfalls. Sipping tea in a leaf-topped hut beside a roaring stream, we searched the tall forested cliffs where the faster but steeper Shidi ghat route was hidden.

Around ten, equipped with a local guide, our group of six (two seniors over 50, two adventurous girls and two veterans of Bhimashanker) took on the ladder strewn route. I think I did this hike last time in 1997; that time the ladders were either made of rusty shaky metal or worse, wood and bamboo. Things had changed; a trekking group has gifted a bright green metal staircase to all. After this ‘ladder’ things get interesting; from my previous attempt I clearly remembered the spot where there are only hand holds and hardly any place to take a second step. A fall at this point is fatal but the hand holds are excellent.

Past this point came two more rusty ladders wedged in the narrow clefts of rock with water gushing through so that it hits you in the face. Wet, drenched, exhilarated, a bit shaken we continued through swollen waterfalls to reach a cave curtained with streams of water. Through the glistening beads of water you could see the vast expanse of green and the adjacent row of cliffs that ended into the sentinel-like sharp peak of Padar Killa.

We reached the first plateau at the point where both routes meet; nearby is Koli village idyllically surrounded by lush paddy fields. Enterprising villagers have erected little huts for tired trekkers to rest to whom they sell tea. Yet this was the half-way point. A steep route climbs up and the forest wears down to bushes and grass. Skirting the edge this route zig-zags steeply and then traverses towards the north, each step proving that the view only gets better before you reach the mists.

The rain gods had quite a treat for us and poured their offerings generously; just in time we reached the upper plateau of Bhimashankar which is covered by a dense, dark forest made all the more mysterious by the dark clouds. There was so much rain that it compensated for all the lack of it in my previous three hikes. We walked through this gorgeous water drenched forest for about an hour until a final climb took us to a foggy top marked by the small Hanuman pond. To the right a route goes to Nagphani, the highest point and the left to Bhimashankar temple.

The fog had come stay; the swirling mists and pouring rain meant that there would be no chance for sightseeing. Shivering and cold we rushed towards the motorable road that comes to Bhimashankar from Pune, which is hugged on both sides by little eateries and shops. It had taken us four long hours to get here and our sprightly seniors from Pune would end their trek here. For the rest of us it was a choice and we chose the more difficult option of returning. A darshan at the temple was not possible because of a long waiting line and so after cups of rejuvenating hot tea and going through everybody’s food stocks we bid our goodbyes and started the long way back home.

It was past three when we made our way back; initially we lost our way in the white mists but luckily grasped the right route and held onto it firmly. We made our way back, past the tall dark forest, down the long walk along the edge, down to the forests till we reached the tea-stalls. The last of the trekkers were making their way up, hoping to stay at the top or take a bus away to wherever. We were the only group moving at our top pace to reach Khandas.

View from Ganesh Ghat

Our newest trekker was a novice and on her first trek she showed admirable reserves of strength to not only complete hike but also keep up with our pace. The Ganesh Ghat route is scenic and in absence of any trekking groups the silence in the beautiful forests was soothing. Water flowed everywhere; scenic streams and gushing cascades met us on our way only to appear later on facing cliffs as a chain of milky waterfalls. On the way back, we took pictures, posed under waterfalls, surveyed the heavenly views, cemented our friendships and stolidly walked on till we finally reached the base just in three hours totally. At the base we booked a tum-tum to Neral station and changed and relaxed. A last look behind showed us that Bhimashankar had retreated back into the clouds. We had made it just in time, as the light of the day slipped away. A perfect ending to what had been an almost perfect day.

Pictures by Shannon & Vikram at:

http://picasaweb.google.com/upsidedownv/Bhimashankar2010?feat=directlink

Read Full Story...

Thrills At Karnala

Despite being close to Bombay Karnala always escaped my trekker’s radar and So when it turned out a simple trek was wanted, finally Karnala’s chance came and my small group of fellow trekkers boarded the six o’clock train to Panvel. We got an auto from the bus stand and within a few minutes we were outside the sanctuary looking at the map at the entrance.

Perhaps we should have paid more attention to it. Turned out that we started off from the wrong route which starts from a small pond. For two hours we walked in the beautiful environs of the bird sanctuary (yes you could hear them!). All the time Karnala with its funnel shaped top stayed at a distance. After a long two hours wondering if the way was ever going to turn towards the fort, we realized we had to return or take a DIY approach.

Taking the second strategy we began to climb through a dry stream bed; unfortunately the stream became a narrow trickle of rocks and we were forced to climb the slope. Soon the growth gave way to grassy steep slopes. Now our group consisted of me and three girls and a German guest. Two of the girls were newbies while the third one must have been a nimble goat in her past life. The novices found the climb increasingly difficult as the slopes became grassier and slippery. At places it became difficult if one stood too long at a spot as the earth slipped under the boots.

Meanwhile the nimble climber decided to take the lead and moved ahead pausing at every lone tree around. I began helping the girls but the going was getting tough for them and they were mentally tired. Also it was getting difficult to move downwards for me since the slope got even more slippery and rocks started slipping. We had high drama with tears, threats of not moving up and flinging our windcheaters (since no one expected ropes on this hike).

Luckily our lead trekker had managed to get near the fort and call for help. Our help came in form of Ravi, a guy who works around Karnala and comes there on weekends. Being a villager he practically danced on the slopes and gave a helping hand to everyone. The girls tied their scarves and he used it as a rope to help them! Luckily we reached under the fort walls in one shape. Now to enter the fort walls! (there had to be a way because how else could Ravi have come to us otherwise?!)

We had to finally climb a tree and from the tree there was one branch wedged in the wall’s rock which provided shaky support for the leg. Luckily trekkers on the fort (at least there were a few real trekkers among the silly gawkers) came to help us and gave us a hand and pulled us into the fort. Finally we were inside and for the newbies the harrowing ordeal was over!

It rained well towards the end of our climb. The mists played hide and seek but it was almost an anticlimax wandering around the ruined fort. There are tanks, crumbling walls and several doorways on the fort. The normal route is quite easy and clearly demarcated and climbs a ridge. It began raining heavily on our way down and I felt at peace after a long time; even my nerves were strained helping damsels in real distress (even if I personally thought we were never in a life threatening position).

Back at the base we realized the correct route lies behind a cluster of buildings. Funnily they have no boards indicating the route to the fort. So if anyone is going to climb Karnala, the right route is behind the resthouse. We finally found out we weren’t the only ones who had made that mistake; but we probably were the only ones who did not turn back!

Read Full Story...

Saturday Special: Sagargad

Sagargad is a small fort near Alibaug. About 410m high it is an easy fort to climb and luckily does not see much traffic in form of trekkers compared to other places close to Bombay. But a temple and a waterfall nearby are liable to attract people on Sundays; since we had chosen a Saturday wisely we had some peace and quiet for most of the time.

We reached the fort by the way that most trekkers do. Take a train to Panvel (harbour line) and catch a ST bus to Alibaug (good frequency). Get down at Khandala village, about 7 km before Alibaug and start walking towards Siddheshwar muth. The route is mostly flat and partially tarred; cars can go a little further but only till the steps.

We caught our train at 6 and were on our way to the fort a little before 9. The area is quite beautiful; paddy fields give way to a verdant forest. It was cloudy and cool as we walked and on our way we saw a field full of cranes, several birds and colourful butterflies. The steps were easy but in absence of rain we began to sweat. Luckily we saw the beautiful Dhondane waterfall which involves a diversion. The route to the waterfall is along the edge of a hill which might be a bit tricky in heavy rain. The waterfall has a sharp drop and is dramatic. More drama happened when I realized I had lost my phone (for the umpteenth time!).

We returned to the main route that goes to the Siddheshwar muth which involved a little climb. We went beyond the temple to a stream that feeds Dhondane waterfall. Upstream we found another waterfall which was perfectly small and intimate and had a little dunking session. Wet and refreshed now we started towards Sagargad fort which is about an hour’s distance away.

On the way you come to Siddheshwar village but ahead the way is a bit confusing as there are too many trails and not seeing the fort anywhere around can be misleading. There are arrows marked on rocks to help but we still saw one trekking group lost. The fort is actually attached to the Siddheshwar hill at one end; we could soon see it separated by a valley. A beautiful walk lead us towards the fort.

A small climb leads to the fort where there are impressive remains of crumbling walls. One has to climb through a broken part of the wall to get inside the main fort area where there are crumbling structures, an odd water tank or two, crumbling walls and a temple. At the very end of the fort is the Vanartok pinnacle seperated from the fort. The peace and beauty of the fort in monsoon is enjoyable. Sagargad by its name evokes the sea of which you get fantastic views. We could even see an island or two.

The clouds started descending upon the fort soon and rain arrived as we made our way back. Finally a real monsoon hike! The rain died down in some time as we started descending but the mist still remained; luckily we had got all our views. On the way back it started pouring again. After the descent we had a flat long walk to Khandala village but luckily midway we got a small open air tempo that gave us a lift to Alibaug. We stood most of the way (to save our butts from feeling the bumps on the road) and it was a thrilling ride in blistering rain. From Alibaug we managed to change near the bus stop under a rickety shed (it was a feat in that heavy rain!) Dry and relieved I sat in a semi-luxury bus back home looking at the rain outside that had brought so much joy! Felt like a monsoontrekker again!

Pics at: http://picasaweb.google.co.in/upsidedownv/Sagargad?feat=directlink

Read Full Story...

Rajmachi version 4.0

It was my fourth time going to Rajmachi. We were just four of us finally going on this trek. Four is among one of my lucky numbers. Would it all come together and create a great hike? The sun that was shining through the windows of the Karjat local seemed to dim my chances. All the rain clouds had disappeared and all the weather forecasts consulted would be proved wrong.

So it was on a clear sunny day that we found ourselves deposited at Kondana village from where we would start our ascent to Rajmachi fort. Most trekkers choose the long but mostly flat route from Lonavala to reach this well-known twin-peaked fort. To avoid the crowds I chose this route; plus there was the attraction of Kondana caves.

I visited the caves after a long time (might be ten years or so) and now there was a board by the Archaeological Survey. There were proper steps at the entrance. As for the caves they seemed to be in the same dilapidated state but I must admit the villagers (who have a stall or two on the way) have kept them clean. A few miscreants have written on the walls but in this country, it could have been worse.

After resting and taking photos we were on our way to the fort. The route goes through the forest ascending steeply at places. Luckily the forest was verdant and the shade was a relief on a hot and humid day. It seemed it had rained before since water drops fell from the trees now and then. The route passes two flat levels but we rested more than often due to the rising heat. However the views kept getting better.

By the time (about three hours since we began) we had reached the Rajmachi plateau and were drenched in sweat and exhausted. Most of us did not even want to climb the fort in front of us. Though we had a laugh about a topless male trekker who needed some ‘support’ according the girls!

We soon made our way to the Rajmachi village; now even a car can reach it on a dry day. Some people had even come on motorbikes; so much for escaping noise and pollution! Excellent village fare is available though we were told to wait for an hour because of the rush. So we decided to tackle one of Rajmachi’s twin forts.

Between the two forts is an old temple. While we were deciding which fort to ascend, we had nimboo pani sold by another enterprising villager. We chose the higher fort and climbed easily the dry steps (in rains it’s more thrilling!). The fort has good walls and even in its ruined state is an impressive reminder of the heydays of Maratha glory. The views from the top were fantastic; Matheran range, Irshal, Karnala, Shirota Lake, Lonavla were seen. We also saw clouds approaching from a distance and by the time we reached the topmost point, we were surrounded by them. Soon nothing was visible and a light drizzle started. It was a wonderful moment that unfortunately didn’t last for long. By the time we started returning, it was clear and sunny again!

Back at the village we had a delicious lunch of rich bhakris, vegetables, pickle and papad. It was almost three when we left and started to go back. It was hot again despite intermittent cloud cover. But descending was much quicker and we had several trekkers making the same trip (including the topless guy who had now covered his modesty with a big hanky). Towards the end we lost our way, got separated and re-united and realized that we were going to another village because of a longer route. Luckily there were a few tiny streams on the way to refresh us. A trudge of two kilometers on the tar road and we were at Kondivde jostling with other trekkers to get a vehicle to Karjat.

It was a tiring trek on account of the sultry weather and it almost did not feel like a good monsoon hike. Just then the rain gods decided to get smart upon us at the last minute. Oh, the irony! Still waiting for a wet, soaked-to-the-skin hike this year!

As usual photos are posted here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/upsidedownv/RajmachiAndKondanaCaves?feat=directlink

Read Full Story...

Historic Strides

Pune is close to some of the most historic forts in Maharashtra. So its no surprise that many Puneites go often to Sinhagad fort, which is the closest to the city. Whats a lesser known fact is that many people fit it into their weekend fitness schedules; morning buses leave from the city as early as four at dawn.


Last month I joined my uncle who climbs Sinhagad every fortnight, on a Sunday morning, just to keep fit. A good change from the usual morning walk at the park! We left at around 5.30 for Sinhagad and reached in less than an hour. There was already a line of cars in front of us and the parking space was getting full. Meanwhile the path was full of avid early morning trekkers with their torches, so that a row of lights illuminated the path right up to the citadel on top which itself was barely visible in the darkness.


We started climbing without torches; soon the day began to dawn slowly. Meanwhile as we climbed there were already people descending down. There were people of all ages – children, teenagers, aunties and uncles, grandmoms and grandpas. The climb took us about an hour or so. I was a bit out of breath probably because of a cough; it was steeper and longer than I had anticipated. But when we reached the top at around seven, the sun was shining on the surrounding countryside.


We were rewarded for our efforts by a row of vendors. Dahi, buttermilk, nimboo-pani, cucumber….take your pick! Evidently Sinhagad at morning is very popular and the villagers are using that to advantage. I and my cousin Ameya rambled a bit at the top but we decided to hurry back before it got too hot to descend. For early March, the air was still cool and pleasant.


It was great to see people of all ages trek up the fort. With the amount of visitors involved it was also a surprise that littering was kept to a minimum. My only complaint was that people carry pesky mobiles with music blaring out; the whole mountainside doesn’t want to listen to what you are listening! Stick to etiquette with headphones!


Descending was a quick affair and while the rest of us managed as fast as we could Ameya charged ahead with lightning speed dodging the latecomers who were climbing up in the rising heat. A good morning workout that got finished off with a round of poha and chai at the base village. At it was not even nine in the morning! This was a rare summer hike for me and probably the one that finished so early in the day!

Ameya at Sinhagad

Read Full Story...

Walking in Matheran

A Colonial Relic at Matheran

On the long Republic Day weekend instead of doing a long trek, I spent my days walking in Matheran. My trekking bible – Harish Kapadia’s “Trekking The Sayhadris” mentions Matheran as:


“This is a well-known hill station and a paradise for hikers, particularly in the monsoon. It has many routes and one can always spend an enjoyable hiking day exploring these…The soil is red and on top excellent walking paths and a lake are the charms of Matheran.”

The ‘excellent walking paths’ cannot be stressed enough; there are several roads to explore around Matheran, either going deep in to the forest or skirting along the edge.


Since a cottage in Matheran has been in my family, I have been lucky to spend several holidays there over the years and they all have been memorable experiences. After all as my cousin Ameya who accompanied said where else, so close to Mumbai, could one experience such wilderness and yet have basic comforts at hand. The cold wave up in the north blessed us with good weather and early mornings were appropriately chilly.


I mentioned before in my blog that the late rains in 2009 have made all winter hikes great because there is still so much greenery around. Matheran was especially verdant at this time of the year.


Most of the crowds at Matheran indulge themselves in the noisy market which is best tackled only for meals. Some venture to a few popular points around the market or visit Charlotte Lake, Matheran’s primary source of water. If you leave early in the morning (even eight is fine if you can’t always get up early like us!) you can visit most of the points and enjoy the views in peace. We visited Louisa Point and Sunset (Porcupine) Point in the morning and enjoyed the wonderful views of the Matheran range right up to Mallangad near Kalyan. Since I had visited Prabal the earlier weekend, it was nice to view the fort from its more famous neighbour.


One of the evenings we did a long circuit to the south of Matheran. A lot of people go to Charlotte Lake but a few continue beyond. At the end of the Matheran towards Karjat lies One-Tree Hill which along with the adjacent Chowk point gives great view of the valley in between Matheran and Prabal, Irshalgad and the Morbe dam reservoir. We watched the sun set from One Tree Hill which requires a bit of climbing. We continued in moon-light to Rambaugh point and then finally trawled to the market. The route is beautiful for walking with thick forest around, a few old Parsi bungalows here and there in the woods. One of the hill station’s charms, are the old properties which are beautiful even when dilapidated; some, like Barr House near the lake are lucky to be converted into tasteful classy hotels.

 As I walked through Matheran I also thought about all the hikes I have done there; Matheran in rains is always great. There are so many routes up; there’s one going down from almost every point! I am just listing a few that I have done: via Peb fort (Panorama Point), Bhivpuri Hill & Garbat point, Rambaugh Point, Sunset Point, Lord Point (Charlotte Lake), from Dasturi to Neral (not by the metalled road)….;if there are others feel free to let me know – I’ll try them this monsoon!

This post is dedicated to the house in Matheran and to my little furry friend there!

Read Full Story...

First hike of 2010 - Prabalgad and Kalavantin pinnacle

I might need to rename this blog since over the past two years I have done probably more winter hikes than monsoon ones. 2009 was particularly dismal due to my work schedule and erratic rains. However 2009’s late rains have meant that all winter hikes are turning out to be great.

The decision to go to Prabalgad was very last-minute. This decision was inspired by my friend Lobhus’ earlier solo hike to the place which in turn was inspired by my brother’s solo sojourn to another place. Since neither I nor my friend Shripati would ever go alone for a hike, just the two of us decided to do the hike.

Prabalgad is a great trek in the rains but most often I have been lost in the forests. So as a winter hike option it seemed right and we could study the directions properly this time. We set out to Panvel by train and then took a bus to Thakurwadi village which goes via the old Bombay-Pune road. (The first two buses leave Panvel at 5.20 and 7.00)

We alighted at Thakurwadi and had to move past various new constructions that have come out in the last few years including a Zola mountain spa and some aesthetically unpleasing houses built by Dharap associates (if you are planning to buy a place here, you should invest your money elsewhere; though the owners’ pads are better landscaped….) Even Salman Khan has a house somewhere around the area!

One has to walk on a private tarred road belonging to Dharap before the climb begins. The well-marked path zig-zags towards the northern end of the Prabal plateau or machi. One the top is the Prabal machi village which though is in nice surroundings, is quite dirty with plastic garbage. On the left is the Kalavantin pinnacle and next to it is the wide expanse of Prabal fort. About half an hour or so from the village one reaches the base of the pinnacle from where wonderfully rock cut steps climb steeply taking one to the top which is a final mass of rocks. The last rock climb is easy for experienced trekkers and the summit has a single flag and great views.

We started our hike around 8 in the morning and had reached the summit around 9:30. We made our way back to the village to tackle Prabal. The Kalavantin pinnacle sees more hikers nowadays; its thrills are easy and fast, kind of like trekking fast-food! The villagers seem to pronounce it more like Harish Kapadia’s book says- Kelveteen; I am not sure which nomenclature is right. Prabalgad on the other receives less visitors but its charms have to be hard-earned. A walk across the machi through bushy forest takes us to the centre of the massif from where a steep path arises. We lost our way once but had a nice walk on the machi, amidst flowering greenery. We had to retrace our path to find a bifurcation (near a large tree) from where thankfully arrows were painted on rocks. A sturdy climb (quite hot around twelve o’clock) took us into the fort. The top is a large plateau comparable to Matheran and is thickly forested. One can ramble around for hours; we went following the arrows to the northern end, where there is a water tank. One can see views of Matheran range and also sight some of the bastions of the fort. At the extreme end a fabulous view of the Kalavantin pinnacle is a must-do.

We started descending around two and had to hurry down to reach by four for a bus back to Panvel. The great thing about Prabal is that it’s so easy to reach from Bombay and yet the seclusion and wilderness at the top is so great. We did not see a single soul at the top of the fort but we did catch sight of a few birds, a couple of grey langurs and a lizard or two. Throughout the hike there were lots of flowers and blooms so that there were bees buzzing by and butterflies flitting about. Truly a great way to spend an idyllic winter day!

As usual photos are on Picasa at: http://picasaweb.google.co.in/upsidedownv/Prabal2010?feat=directlink

Read Full Story...