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Sunday 4 November 2012

MAHABALESHWAR TO RAIRESHWAR


Last month, at the end of monsoon, I stayed at Mahabaleshwar for a couple of days. There at Arthur’s Seat, along with my uncle, we reminisced about our memorable monsoon trek years ago from Dhavle Ghat which lies way below Arthur’s Seat. Right there the germ of returning and doing a similar trek took hold. So three weeks later we were back after negotiating with a local guide for a cross country trek.

Arthur’s Seat was off-limits for some railings maintainence so we descended from Old Mahabaleshwar. A little path from the main temple leads to another deserted temple at the edge of the mountain. From here the plan was to climb down into the valley, climb the huge mountain plateau of Koleshwar, descend and then climb Raireshwar. Next day we would do the same in reverse, with Kamalgad instead of Koleshwar.

Koleshwar
For an overnight trip we had packed a lot and as a result the heavy load impacted our speed. Initially the weather was great with a cool morning breeze (we started at eight). Down in the valley, we crossed the river that feeds the Balkewadi reservoir and walked towards Jor village (which we had visited years ago on that hike).

Koleshwar is another huge mountain plateau that stretches as long as Mahabaleshwar. Climbing it was tiring especially in the sun-exposed parts. However the top was wonderful and large with a variety of scenery: grassland meadows, fern-filled expanses, dense forests. The views were wonderful too. On the large top there is only one habitation where only two (hospitable) families stay isolated from modern life.

Crossing Koleshwar, we soon could see another huge mountain that was Raireshwar. The descent was long, steep and tiring. By the time we reached a reservoir at the bottom, my shoulders were tired and everyone else was equally exhausted. It was four and the huge hill of Raireshwar loomed in front. Climbing was not an option at it would take us another three plus hours with our heavy loads so we decided to take a vehicle towards a motorable road that passes just below the Raireshwar top. From here one has to walk a little, climb some steps and ladders on the final cliff and then walk for a kilometre across to the settlement. By the time we got our vehicle and finished off the steps, it was nightfall and the  moon shined brightly.

Staying facilities at Raireshwar are good: the villagers are ready to house and feed trekkers. There is only one settlement on this vast plateau. The next morning we woke up late from exhaustion and hence skipped over the sightseeing. Kamalgad was also too much to handle (its an equally huge mountain) and so we took another vehicle that took us to Balkewadi dam. From here we planned to climb up to Kate’s Point of Mahabaleshwar.

Starting almost at noon, this was an arduous climb with our still heavy sacks. On a day with little weight this would have been easier but we were panting and puffing in the heat by the time we stood below Kate’s Point. By the time the hike was over (we relaxed by the spring near Kate’s Point where the water was wonderfully cold) we knew this was one of the toughest hikes so far.

Still it was memorable not only for the heat and endurance but also for the beautiful vistas;  flowers were still blooming at the end of monsoon, springs still had some water left, butterflies were flitting around.... The pleasure of hiking around Mahabaleshwar is the unspoilt wilderness around. Nature at its best!

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