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Thursday 22 July 2010

Thrills At Karnala



Despite being close to Bombay Karnala always escaped my trekker’s radar and So when it turned out a simple trek was wanted, finally Karnala’s chance came and my small group of fellow trekkers boarded the six o’clock train to Panvel. We got an auto from the bus stand and within a few minutes we were outside the sanctuary looking at the map at the entrance.

Perhaps we should have paid more attention to it. Turned out that we started off from the wrong route which starts from a small pond. For two hours we walked in the beautiful environs of the bird sanctuary (yes you could hear them!). All the time Karnala with its funnel shaped top stayed at a distance. After a long two hours wondering if the way was ever going to turn towards the fort, we realized we had to return or take a DIY approach.

Taking the second strategy we began to climb through a dry stream bed; unfortunately the stream became a narrow trickle of rocks and we were forced to climb the slope. Soon the growth gave way to grassy steep slopes. Now our group consisted of me and three girls and a German guest. Two of the girls were newbies while the third one must have been a nimble goat in her past life. The novices found the climb increasingly difficult as the slopes became grassier and slippery. At places it became difficult if one stood too long at a spot as the earth slipped under the boots.

Meanwhile the nimble climber decided to take the lead and moved ahead pausing at every lone tree around. I began helping the girls but the going was getting tough for them and they were mentally tired. Also it was getting difficult to move downwards for me since the slope got even more slippery and rocks started slipping. We had high drama with tears, threats of not moving up and flinging our windcheaters (since no one expected ropes on this hike).

Luckily our lead trekker had managed to get near the fort and call for help. Our help came in form of Ravi, a guy who works around Karnala and comes there on weekends. Being a villager he practically danced on the slopes and gave a helping hand to everyone. The girls tied their scarves and he used it as a rope to help them! Luckily we reached under the fort walls in one shape. Now to enter the fort walls! (there had to be a way because how else could Ravi have come to us otherwise?!)

We had to finally climb a tree and from the tree there was one branch wedged in the wall’s rock which provided shaky support for the leg. Luckily trekkers on the fort (at least there were a few real trekkers among the silly gawkers) came to help us and gave us a hand and pulled us into the fort. Finally we were inside and for the newbies the harrowing ordeal was over!

It rained well towards the end of our climb. The mists played hide and seek but it was almost an anticlimax wandering around the ruined fort. There are tanks, crumbling walls and several doorways on the fort. The normal route is quite easy and clearly demarcated and climbs a ridge. It began raining heavily on our way down and I felt at peace after a long time; even my nerves were strained helping damsels in real distress (even if I personally thought we were never in a life threatening position).

Back at the base we realized the correct route lies behind a cluster of buildings. Funnily they have no boards indicating the route to the fort. So if anyone is going to climb Karnala, the right route is behind the resthouse. We finally found out we weren’t the only ones who had made that mistake; but we probably were the only ones who did not turn back!

Monday 5 July 2010

Saturday Special: Sagargad



Sagargad is a small fort near Alibaug. About 410m high it is an easy fort to climb and luckily does not see much traffic in form of trekkers compared to other places close to Bombay. But a temple and a waterfall nearby are liable to attract people on Sundays; since we had chosen a Saturday wisely we had some peace and quiet for most of the time.

We reached the fort by the way that most trekkers do. Take a train to Panvel (harbour line) and catch a ST bus to Alibaug (good frequency). Get down at Khandala village, about 7 km before Alibaug and start walking towards Siddheshwar muth. The route is mostly flat and partially tarred; cars can go a little further but only till the steps.

We caught our train at 6 and were on our way to the fort a little before 9. The area is quite beautiful; paddy fields give way to a verdant forest. It was cloudy and cool as we walked and on our way we saw a field full of cranes, several birds and colourful butterflies. The steps were easy but in absence of rain we began to sweat. Luckily we saw the beautiful Dhondane waterfall which involves a diversion. The route to the waterfall is along the edge of a hill which might be a bit tricky in heavy rain. The waterfall has a sharp drop and is dramatic. More drama happened when I realized I had lost my phone (for the umpteenth time!).

We returned to the main route that goes to the Siddheshwar muth which involved a little climb. We went beyond the temple to a stream that feeds Dhondane waterfall. Upstream we found another waterfall which was perfectly small and intimate and had a little dunking session. Wet and refreshed now we started towards Sagargad fort which is about an hour’s distance away.

On the way you come to Siddheshwar village but ahead the way is a bit confusing as there are too many trails and not seeing the fort anywhere around can be misleading. There are arrows marked on rocks to help but we still saw one trekking group lost. The fort is actually attached to the Siddheshwar hill at one end; we could soon see it separated by a valley. A beautiful walk lead us towards the fort.

A small climb leads to the fort where there are impressive remains of crumbling walls. One has to climb through a broken part of the wall to get inside the main fort area where there are crumbling structures, an odd water tank or two, crumbling walls and a temple. At the very end of the fort is the Vanartok pinnacle seperated from the fort. The peace and beauty of the fort in monsoon is enjoyable. Sagargad by its name evokes the sea of which you get fantastic views. We could even see an island or two.

The clouds started descending upon the fort soon and rain arrived as we made our way back. Finally a real monsoon hike! The rain died down in some time as we started descending but the mist still remained; luckily we had got all our views. On the way back it started pouring again. After the descent we had a flat long walk to Khandala village but luckily midway we got a small open air tempo that gave us a lift to Alibaug. We stood most of the way (to save our butts from feeling the bumps on the road) and it was a thrilling ride in blistering rain. From Alibaug we managed to change near the bus stop under a rickety shed (it was a feat in that heavy rain!) Dry and relieved I sat in a semi-luxury bus back home looking at the rain outside that had brought so much joy! Felt like a monsoontrekker again!

Pics at: http://picasaweb.google.co.in/upsidedownv/Sagargad?feat=directlink