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Thursday 10 January 2013

RINGING IN A NEW YEAR AT RATANGAD






The first weekend of 2013 and already out on a trek! A trek that almost did not happen as a group of seven whittled down to three! And what a shame those people did not make it because the weather was so good, the scenery was so spectacular and the area was so bereft of crowds.

Travelling to Ratangad is like going back in time; this is the third time I’ve done the trek and the markers and turns are almost etched in mind, despite the large gaps between the visits. Situated at the edge of the ghats, towering over Bhandardhara lake, Ratangad or ‘jewel among forts’ is a wonderful trek, albeit one that involves a long journey.

And we journeyed long, having reached late in the evening at Bhandardhara lake and missed the boat across to Ratanwadi. We had to drive in darkness on narrow roads and took shelter in the village of Udhavne (below Alang). At dawn the cold was crisp and deadly and getting out of sleeping bags was almost a torture. But we were again on the road and reached Ratanwadi, which has changed and boasts public toilets and a small parking lot now.

The trek then was the usual (to what I did back in 2008 and faithfully recorded on this blog). Arrows directed us through the dried stream beds, the forest and up the ladders (these too were new). At the top in the cave a village couple serves hot rustic meals on demand. While they were busy cooking for us, we took a tour of the fort. The views of Ajoba and neighbouring hills are awesome as always. Skirting tanks and old broken doorways, we made our way to the ‘nedhe’ or hole in the summit, where a wonderful wind blew and connected the two sides of the mountain. Looking back I’ll wonder how idyllic it all was, a Sunday away from the hectic city life.

But time ticks away and we had to be back to take in our lunch: hot bhakris, a delicious vegetable of potatoes and pulses and the pièce de resistance- a hot spicy ‘thecha’ of freshly ground chillies. After the lunch it was a quick descent because we had spent more time than expected wandering on the top. At four we touched base near the car and were ready to speed away back to home.

Surreal that moments ago we were on top of the world, in a hole in the mountain. A moment in time to remember and treasure for the three of us who happened to be fortunate there and then!

Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/Ratangad2013

Monday 7 January 2013

ALANG-MADANGAD – COMPLETING THE HOLY TRINITY


On top of Alang fort

For any seasoned hiker in Sayhadris, it is not Kalsubai, the highest mountain of the state that holds the greatest challenge. Rather, its Kalsubai’s formidable neighbours, that strike the serious trekker in awe. I am talking about the holy trinity of Kulang, Madangad and Alang – the three forts that rise mightily and involve heavy-duty trekking.

Having climbed Kulang several  years ago, Alang and Madangad had been on me and my brothers’ wish lists but not having done serious rock-climbing, they had remained out of reach. Now that one of us knew how it was done, we were raring to go.

Except our adventure sputtered right from the start in characteristic fashion of people dropping in and out of the hike (myself included!). Finally we were reduced to three when we boarded the last local to Kasara. A jeep had been arranged to take us to Ambewadi, the base village. Arriving at five, we slept for an hour and got up groggily in cool morning. A little before seven we started for the far off but clear sharp silhouettes of Alang and Madangad.

After a walk across dried fields, we started climbing a forested hill. The climb took us over a ridge falling from Alang. After a flat walk, the incline took us by surprise but once on top, we had to take a long traverse through thick forest that was cool and green. The long traverse soon ended and it was back to climbing on a steep incline over loose soil and scree. Most of the climb was among tall karvi shrubs. Finally we reached a series of broken steps that gave the first indication of a fort on the gigantic mountain.

The steps lead to cave from where, one can continue either to Alang or to Madangad. We decided to first do the latter and took a right, traversing another long stretch of the mountain edge. Finally one reaches the point between Alang and Madangad from where one can see the Ghatgar-Bhandardara catchment area. Moving on, we started traversing the smaller Madangad mountain till we finally reached the steps of this crumbling fort.

The steps at Madangad are steep and large, climbing like a staircase to heaven. The staircase twisted and turned until it finally reached a blown off face where our first rock climb (about 30m I think) started. This was my first big rock climb and went off smoothly. On the top more steps continued till we reached a broken entrance that led to the grassy top. Madangad has a small, handsome top – it’s a small, slanting area bounded on all sides by steep edges and gives fantastic views of Alang and Kulang. On top there are few water tanks and a cave.

After sightseeing, it was time to go down and having never rappelled before, I took some time to get into the act. However once I started, it was cool and I felt it was easier than climbing up. Luckily my two experienced companions were well prepared with all equipment and friendly advice!

We made our way back to the cave and after lunch, moved to tackle Alang.  A small rock patch was just a teaser to the main 50m climb which was daunting. My brother negotiated it easily but I had some tense 15 minutes which felt like eternity when I was stuck 30m off the ground trying to get a hold on a almost vertical rock face. It took some time, before all three of us finished this patch and then on we had to climb some more exposed steps before we reached the top.

Alang has a semicircular shape and its flat top extends spectacularly. There are caves some of which are clean and inhabitable. There are also some tanks, most of which hold impotable water. We rested in the cave and cooked and talked about the eventful day. The sun had set by the time we reached the top so we could not see around much but later after dinner we went off to search water and stumbled upon seven impressive water tanks on the fort. 

Alang, Madangad & Kulang silhouettes

In the morning, it was very cold and since I had done a short night tour of the fort, I slept on while my brother went to see the beautiful sunrise.  In the morning we surveyed the surroundings and in the hazy winter light, we could make out Ratangad and Ajoba far off in the distance. Going down we thought would not take much time but I did not have the nerve to rappel down 50m and kept on having false starts. Finally they belayed me down to save time! A few scrapes and bruises down, there was nothing left but to move on! We were behind our time schedule having started around nine and it was noon but we were still descending. Luckily the forest around Alang was shady and going back was easier. By two-thirty we were back at Ambewadi where we had started.

This was my second rock climbing trek, having done Harischandragad by a tricky route. However here the rock climbs were much longer and difficult. While I won’t be the first person to suggest technical climbs in future I did enjoy the thrills of this trek. It was also an appropriate crackling way to end a great year of hiking! Hope the new year brings equally memorable experiences.

Photos at: https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/AlangMadangad?authuser=0&feat=directlink