INDEPENDANCE WEEKEND TREK - PART 1: SIDDHAGAD FORT

The Independence day weekend trek is been a tradition and as time passes, I wonder if I will be able to continue it in the coming year. A sign of growing older is becoming more and more aware of time and its passing. Time was not much on our side at the beginning of this trek itself. After lot of planning I was to come from Bombay and others from Pune. We were to meet at Karjat station and then head towards Murbad for our trek to Siddhagad and Ahupe Ghat. However at Karjat station due to phone connectivity issues we lost about half an hour and thus started late.

Climbing Siddhagad

Years earlier, I had trekked to both Siddhagad and Ahupe Ghat separately. The former was an arduous hike and I remember we were pressed for time (those being the days of catching the only ST bus in the vicinity) and we did not manage to reach the top.  This time I thought, I might be luckier. From Karjat, the road passes Kashele (from where one takes a diversion for the Bhimashankar trek) and then Mhasa. From this small town, we took a road that almost runs parallel to the main mountain range of Sayhadris. Now from memory I remembered the base village being Narivli but as we got on the way there was a signpost announcing the road to Siddhagad. Happily we took and drove down a bad road (for which you do pay a toll as there is a forest fee for the protected forests of Bhimashankar). This led us to the hamlet of Bhorwadi from where the road continues to Siddhagad – not the fort but a waterfall that attracts crowds nowadays. We parked the car in the hamlet and walked on the kuccha road for some time only to realise the direction was wrong. We returned back and enquired in the village and finally got on the right road thanks to a helpful village woman. We were again running – or should I say climbing – against time!

The way from Bhorwadi is not well frequented; compared to the cars going to the waterfall (at least a couple every half an hour) there was not a soul on this route. The route climbed through the forest and a dry waterfall bed eventually to land on steep slopes. We had to negotiate some tricky small rock patches which were wet and slightly exposed. Eventually we made our way to an precarious stairway where most of the steps were almost worn out.

Siddhagad is square massif with a plateau above which there is a further climb to the summit. It took us about couple of hours roughly to get to the plateau. The base village of Siddhagadwadi was a few more minutes walk across serene rice fields. We met some villagers on the way who had come from the other route from Narivali village. They informed us that the route to the top of the fort was not well frequented and also that the village had very few people. Most of the villagers had migrated and only eight houses were inhabited.

The weather was volatile on the trek; cloudy skies gave way to sunshine only for the clouds to eventually gather back and rain. When we were at the village waiting for a guide, the rains started. We had initially planned to trek from Siddhagadwadi all the way to Ahupe, climb down the ghat and then return. However as we started from the wrong village we had not choice but to return back to it and our car parked there. The way back would be tricky in heavy rain so we were wondering whether to make the final climb or not. There are some ancient ruins on the plateau which we could see but we decided to try tackling the summit.

Siddhagad fort from Bhorwadi village (base)

The final climb was steep through thick forest. There was mist around so we could hardly see anything around. We had apprehensions about making it back in time and in daylight so we decided to go only up to a cave half way up. The village guide we took told us there had been some landslides and some rocks falling down in the earlier month. Just the news to dissuade enthusiastic trekkers!

When I had come several years before to Siddhagad, a sanyasi baba used to stay in the cave and villagers would visit him. Unfortunately the holy man had died a few years earlier and so the visitors had stopped. The guide showed us a small Samadhi for the holy man. A little ahead was the rock cut cave – it smelled a bit dank like all caves do but otherwise it was clean and a good place to sleep should one want to camp.

The top fort of Siddhagad once again eluded us as we decided to head back. When we started descending from the plateau the rain was a thing of past and it was shining clearly. The views around were great; we could see Gorakhagad and Macchindragad pinnacles in a distance. Descending was quicker than expected and we made it back to the village in good time. With time on hand we decided to see what the fuss was about regarding the famous waterfall.

Unfortunately the beautiful waterfall is best avoided. Litter and garbage were all around. The area around the waterfall literally reeked of alcohol; you could smell cheap beer in the air. Once again I wondered how blessed we are with such natural beauty and how undeserving most Indian are about it.

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ASWAL KHIND TREK

Starting trek from Kamthe Village

‘Aswal Khind’ literally means ‘bear pass’ and the name seems to have originated from bears infesting the thick jungles around. While the forest in itself is as dense and wild as imagined, the pass itself is not very obscure and seemed like a well-trodden past. I don’t know if bears are present in this part of the Western Ghats anymore but I could certainly imagine wild cats prowling in the dark!

I had heard about Aswal Khind in reports of a route from Raireshwar plateau to Konkan. Most visitors had mentioned walking in the wilderness of the large plateau till they came to the end which is characterized by a hole in the rock (Nakhind), from where a difficult route ascended to Aswal Khind. Many did not make the route or others just got lost even before Nakhind. With this kind of info, Aswal Khind gained stature in my eyes. Definitely something worth visiting; however this was not that hike.

Me and my regular trekking companions went with a group from Pune who was organizing a ‘pilot trek’ to Aswal Khind (though with 45 people I don’t know why the term ‘pilot’ was used). However we would be only doing this pass which connected Kamthe village in Konkan to Kudali village on the plateau (somewhat near Bhor). The trek reminded me of a previously well-cherished hike to Dhavle Ghat which is nearby. They shared similar characteristics though Dhavle was much more wilder!

The trek starts by reaching Kamthe village which has to be reached from Poladpur (also the place from where road to Dhavle starts). From Kamthe a well trodden path climbs steadily upwards going closer and closer to the mountains that surround this village on almost three sides. In the morning, when we started, rain was falling and the waterfalls around were a wonderful sight.

Route through thick vegetation

A guide is necessary as the hills are densely forested and in monsoon, most of the tops are hidden, making identification difficult. The rain stopped as we climbed but save for a clearing at one level, most of this trek is well shaded, as the path goes into lovely forests. Our guides had bought their sickles to cut through the dense growth. Waterfalls guzzled all around us and we often crossed them merrily. As we went higher, the trek became steeper. Rain started falling and mist enveloped us. After about three or so hours, we finally reached the top of Aswal khind.

Looking back at the route from Kamthe from a waterfall

At the pass, there are huge boulders on which the guides were sitting as we huffed and puffed up the slope. They told us that on the right was Raireshwar with the Nakhind point but of course it was hidden now in clouds. The way ahead moved downwards and would go through a leech-infested forest. Socks were hiked up with trouser hems stuffed inside. We would now be walking without pausing till we cleared the forest. The route here was unclear and the forest floor was full of fallen leaves. After about 30-40 minutes we reached a stream after which the forest cleared. Crossing the stream I looked back to see the mountains of Raireshwar, their peaks still hidden in clouds. But the mist had cleared and I could see a depression between the forested hills where Aswal Khind lay.

Eventually we walked a bit more and had to cross the same stream again; this time it had grown in size and we had to be careful. A few dogs who had been following us from the start were scared and my cousin had to carry them in his arms. We eventually reached the road which goes to Kudali village. Our bus was waiting there but a tire was flat. While the driver took care of that we gave our tired bodies a soothing hydrotherapy session in the flowing stream nearby. Coming back was a pain as to reach Bombay, we had to reach the main highway to Bhor (vehicles as well as ST buses available), catch a bus to Mahad (2 hours) and then a long ride to Bombay on a bumpy road (shame to call the Mumbai-Goa road a national highway!) The aches and pains of that long tiring journey are gone and only memories of the lovely Aswal khind remain; it was much tamer than expected but enjoyable nevertheless!

Raireshwar from other side of Aswal Khind

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RAJGAD IN RAINS

RAJGAD IN RAINS

Suvela Machi, Rajgad Fort

Rajgad was the first capital of Shivaji’s kingdom. Fittingly it is an impressive fort that boasts of wonderful fortifications that are still intact. Winters are generally a better time to appreciate all the various points on this spread out fort. However I have always visited it in rains; the first time we were so soaking wet and cold, we had no energy to explore. Luckily this time was different.

Rajgad is easy to approach from Pune. On NH4, about 20 kms from Pune lies Nasrapur phata. From here the road accesses most of the villages that can be used to climb Rajgad. There are multiple routes to the fort but the one that seems to be most widely used is from base village of Gunjavne. The easy accessibility means loads of trekkers; we were greeted with a group of about a hundred kids readying for their day on the fort!

The climb from Gunjavne is well marked and even if you miss your way a little bit, you’ll get back on the right track! Initially the route climbs gently and soon enters the forests around the fort. The weather was luckily good with light rain and mists, so that it was reasonably cool. As one proceeds the route starts getting steeper. We soon caught up with the kids who were struggling a little but very enthusiastic nonetheless! Eventually a small flat traverse takes one towards a steep rocky patch which has railings for support. After the patch you enter a small ‘chor darwaja’ and you are suddenly inside the fort.

En route from Gunjavne village via Chor Darwaja

At the top there was fog everywhere making it difficult to get bearings. Luckily there are signposts at various points. The fort is roughly divided into three ‘machis’ – Padmavati, Suvela and Sanjeevani. In middle of the fort at a height is the ‘Balle Killa’ – the highest point. Our route took us to Padmavati machi, which is flatter and has a temple, some ruins and a lovely water tank. We climbed in about 2 hours or so and we had time to wander so we decided to go to Suvela machi.

Water tank at Padmavati Machi

Rajgad, like Sinhagad, is a source of endless joy and wonder for Punekars who make regular visits. Even on a Saturday there were hundreds of people; yet the fort is large enough to be enjoyed in relative peace and quiet. We met relatives during our walks. Another trekker introduced himself as someone who had been to Rajgad almost eighty times! A couple of septuagenarians were climbing as fast as seventeen year olds!

Double walled fortification on Suvela Machi

I had missed exploring Rajgad on an earlier hike almost ten years ago. This time walking to Suvela machi reinforced the impression that I had missed something special. Built on a long ridge by Shivaji Maharaj on the eastern side of the fort, Suvela Machi consists of a double wall along on both side so the ridge. The fortifications snake their way along the ridge and walking on the walls was an unforgettable experience. The mist cleared from time to time making us gasp at the beauty of the fort and its surroundings. Water tanks, hidden doorways, tunnels – there was so much to explore! I would definitely like to come back to Rajgad, perhaps by another route which will allow us to explore another fascinating part of this fort. After all there’s got to be so much more for a fort that merits eighty visits!

Small tunnel at Suvela Machi

Rajgad fort walls - Suvela Machi

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GHERSURGAD FORT

Early September saw rains lashing my part of the world and the weekend seemed to be conducive for a wet hike. So on a Saturday I set out by train to Khopoli to join my uncle and cousin for a trek to Gherasurgad or Surgad as it’s also known. I had read about this lesser known fort only from online blogs and so was excited to visit it.

From Khopoli, the road was initially quite bad (even though the Imagica theme park lies along this route). Luckily the road improved and turned picturesque as we drove towards Pali. From Pali we joined the Bombay-Goa road and ahead of Nagothane took a detour (from Khamb) to the village of Vaijnath that lies at the base of the fort.

Surgad is not a high fort (about 1800 ft) and lies detached from the main Sahyadri range. It is surrounded by thick forest on all sides. We started climbing around eleven; the rains had vanished but it was mildly cloudy. Further it had rained earlier so everywhere there was the pleasant sound of running water; soon even our path had become a mini-waterfall.

The route was beautiful and shaded by trees. Skipping across lush paddy fields, we entered a forested route. The route eventually reaches a plateau. First there is a rocky clearing and then one re-enters the forest, reaching a point where there is a board announcing directions. A path demarcated by stones on either side, moves towards the cliffs which gave natural fortification to the fort. A gully with cliffs on either side has to be negotiated and there is a patch that is tricky when wet. There must have steps at one time here but they have been blasted. Remnants of steps lie on the top and one reaches an idol of a Hanuman with moustaches.

From here on one can explore the fort. We stopped at this point to gaze views of the other side of the fort; we could see the river Kundalika snaking through the green countryside. The top of the fort was covered with really tall grass, it was higher than our heads at places and completely obscured the path. However it was beautiful and peaceful at the top with interesting relics of the path; an impressive bastion, a carved tablet, a small ‘lingam’ of Shiva, some water tanks....

The fort somehow reminded me of Sudhagad which is not too far away from Surgad. Both forts have such beautiful surroundings that they are an absolute treat to visit and explore in the monsoon; I highly recommend them to novice trekkers. We spent some time by the edge of the fort, having lunch and listening to the breeze drifting through the overgrown grass and that is the way I will always remember this trek!

Overgrown grass on Ghersurgad

Link to pics:

https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/Gherasurgad

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INDEPENDANCE DAY WEEKEND HIKE (PART 2): MARKANDYA & JAWLYA FORT

After finishing Dhodap, we spent some minutes in Hatti village with a very hospitable old man who had a small shop. He offered us tea and told us about the origins of his people. After Rana Pratap’s defeat, many of his men got scattered all over India. One group came to Nasik region and settled in the area around Dhodap. When we left Hatti toward Babapur (our next destination village), we often stopped to ask directions and noticed the different features of the people in the villages.

From Babapur we had to make our way to the pass between Markandya and Rawlya-Jawlya. At this pass there is a tiny temple with a resident ‘baba’ who charges 100 bucks to oversee parked vehicles. From this point one has choice of going either of the two mountains. We decided to tackle Markandya first as the route was shorter and there was shelter at the top.

Since this a regular pilgrimage place, the route is well marked. Villagers are trying to make steps and at places have put up railings. It was all a work in progress as some construction material was strewn around. Luckily once we reached the upper plateau, there was only a small path and there seemed to be hardly anyone on top. There is a ‘mutth’ on the plateau where another ‘baba’ resides. It is a comfortable place to stay though the villagers are a little less hospitable; they only relented after ‘baba’ permitted us to stay. The plateau is huge and the top is quite a steep climb up. Since we did not have time, a couple of us went half-way up to a small Shiva temple. The actual temple of sage Markendeya is quite further up and was hidden in clouds.

Next morning we got up shivering with the sound of heavy rain on the tin roof. Luckily in some time, the rain receded and we set out in the mist. It took us barely 30-40 minutes to get down and by that time, the weather had changed. The sun was coming out....

Rawlya fort seen from Markandya plateau

At around 8.30 after keeping our heavy bags inside our car, we set out with necessities to go to Jawlya fort. A steep climb takes on to the vast plateau of Rawlya-Jawlya. Once on the grassy top, views of the countryside including Markandya are fantastic. We had no guide but a cowherd on the way gave us directions. The plateau of Rawlya-Jawlya is quite big and uninhabited save for one tiny settlement that lies between the two peaks. We saw no people but lots of cows and buffaloes, grazing their way to glory. And shitting a lot too! Soon our trails got lost and we had to walk through sticky mud trying to avoid cow-dung generously littered on the way! The cowherd had told us to go towards the right so we tried to follow that direction. But the mist was closing in and visibility turned low. Luckily we kept on moving to the right near the base of Rawlya and soon found a clearly marked, albeit muddy path. This path goes on the side of Rawlya until finally the hamlet comes into view.

The hamlet was basically just two huts. The villagers make ‘khava’ from the milk which is used in Indian sweets. We dragged our feet through muck to reach the huts where we asked for a guide but no one wanted to come. With no choice but to proceed without a guide we asked for directions and moved towards Jawlya which was half-hidden in clouds. There were clear trails but as we moved on, they became faint and we were not clear where we would start ascending.

Fortunately we met a villager who had brought his cows up to graze. After a little cajoling he agreed to take us to the fort. With a sickle he began cutting undergrowth and started on an ascent that was steep and obviously muddy (a feature of this place!). A path soon became visible but we would never have found it easily by ourselves. A short steep ascent led us to a small clearing in front of the rock face. Again, we would not have guessed one has to climb here. It was a thrilling rock climb, slightly exposed but no rope was needed. We eventually reached crumbling steps and remnants of a doorway. 

The doorway almost opens upwards like a hatch would; on top is a grassy expanse with almost no remnants of fortification. We walked on the small top towards to a set of tanks. It was beautiful with lovely views all around; in the distance we could make out our old friend Dhodap! One day maybe I would do the original plan of a cross country hike from Dhodap  and combine it with Rawlya – the other twin fort needs a rope.

Water tanks on Jawlya Fort

Coming back was easy and leisurely. We had done the trek in good time; it was one o’clock and we had a long flat walk back. The rain had stopped and so the mud was less squishy now! We walked back admiring the lovely quiet plateau, now revealing itself and the views around as the mist had completely lifted now. Soon we were back near our starting point; Markandya was in sight with its temple on the summit – eye-catching orange in colour. Walking back I was thankful to the rain gods for giving us views that would remain in our memories for years. The weekend was almost over now but what a weekend it was!

More pics at: https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/DhodapJawlyaMarkandyaTrek

Directions: From Nasik, take the Bombay-Agra highway and take a diversion for Vani. From this road, one takes a diversion for Babapur, beyond which lies the pass for Markandya and/or Rawlya-Jawlya.

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INDEPENDANCE DAY WEEKEND HIKE (PART 1): DHODAP FORT

For a long time, I had wanted to go to Dhodap fort. My brother had been there thrice and had mentioned it as one of the most interesting forts to visit. I had missed going there all three times so when I sat to plan the Independence day weekend, Dhodap was high up on the list.

We set out on the 16^th morning; three people from Mumbai and two from Pune, meeting at Nasik. We drove our car from the dry but cloudy skies towards Dhodambe from where a small road goes to Hatti village (or the village of Rajputs – more on that later).

Dhodap fort in the mists from Hatti village

As we reached Dhodambe, the weather completely changed; dark clouds loomed ready to break at any moment. By time we were at Hatti, it was pouring and all the hills were covered with thick clouds. I was expecting cloudy skies but no downpours like this so the important thing was to find a guide. The villagers asked us to seek Raju guide – however based on our experience PLEASE DON’T TAKE HIM! I had initially planned to do Dhodap and then hike across to Jawlya fort. My brother had done the trek from Markandya to Rawlya-Jawlya to Dhodap. However portly Raju said that the weather was bad and the way was risky. Other nosy villagers refused to answer questions about the route, flatly just ordering us to come down and drive down to Babapur for the other forts.

On the way to Dhodap fort

Since it was raining, we decided to take their word. However fifteen minutes later, the rain stopped, and things began clearing. I was already cursing Raju guide who had said there was knee deep mud on our cross-country route!

Dhodap is a beautiful fort; morderate from trekking point of view. There is not much forest around and trails are well marked so chances of losing your way are low. The route passes a lake and goes towards right side of the fort (dome side if you are looking at the fort). It climbs up to a plateau – this point is marked by a tank of potable water. On the plateau is Sonar’s village which has only two huts. One can explore the plateau as there some temples and ruins.

Water tank on Dhodap plateau

Ikhara pinnacle seen from Dhodap plateau

On the plateau the villagers have began constructing a broad (and frankly ugly) road to the top. The road has signposts of various wildlife that can be seen, though chances of encountering any seemed very low. Luckily the views around were wonderful and distracted everyone. A small rock patch has to be negotiated and soon one reaches a doorway.

Rock patch at Dhodap fort

Dhodap fort has wonderful fortifications; there are two rows of walls, several caves and bastions. Some of the ruins at the top are romantically desolate; a half arch here, an alcove on a ruined wall there. It is a truly a gorgeous fort with wonderful views. The weather was also cool and perfect. We could see Ikhara pinnacle and later on Rawlya-Jawlya forts.

Steps to second gate of Dhodap fort

Summit of Dhodap fort with ruins (right)

Dhodap has a distinctive dome-shaped summit accessible through rock climbing. It also has a long ridge like part beyond the summit which has a large gap or dyke. Standing at the dyke is a thrilling experience; it seems fearsome to navigate and the ridge beyond is mystifyingly out of reach. Again the charm is greatly reduced by the ugly railing installed recently but I guess safety is important. Despite these hiccups, the fort is a must-see for those trekking in Sahyadris. For me a long-cherised trek had been ticked off on the to-do list.

Dhodap fort

Dyke at Dhodap fort and view towards Rawlya-Jawlya forts

Directions: From Nasik, take the Bombay-Agra highway and take a diversion from Vadalibhoi naka to Dodhambe. From Dodhambe a road goes to Hatti village (where migrants from Rajasthan settled centuries ago).

More pics at: https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/DhodapJawlyaMarkandyaTrek

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ROHIDA a.k.a VICHITRAGAD

Living in Mumbai, I have covered most of the nearby trekking spots over years. So when a chance came to spend a weekend in Pune, I was glad to have new options to consider. Rohida fort is not too far away from Pune and I had heard it was an easy trek so it made good sense to go there (though it being a Sunday I was afraid of crowds of trekkers).

Rohida fort seen from temple at base village Bazaarwadi.

I set out with my cousin and my uncle on Sunday morning at 6.30 towards the small town of Bhor, about one hour away from south Pune where we were based. The weather was cool and cloudy and the roads were empty. We even gave an old grandfather a ride when we stopped to ask him for directions. From Bhor we had to reach the base village of Bazaarwadi.

The village lies at the foot of the fort, surrounded by mountains. The fort itself seemed quite close though the citadel was high and lost in clouds. Near the village school there is a water tank from where the trek starts. One has to climb along a grassy ridge till a point where the stone markers appear. The villagers have clearly demarcated the path so it’s difficult to get lost.

The route steeply ascends and grass gives way to bushes. We could now make out two bastions at the two ends of the fort. Eventually the route reaches the first gate and then one enters a series of gates with intact fortifications. The last gate has two carved elephant heads on each side. The fort was initially shrouded in mist but a map at the top was a helpful indicator.

Rohida is also known as Vichitragad, though the reasons for that name seemed unclear. There is a temple of Rohideshwar at the summit; this is a lovely spot with tanks nearby. In fact the whole fort though not very big has been impressively maintained by villagers and an organisation. They have demarcated the routes, cleared the rubbish and planted trees. I was impressed and wished that others could take a hint from here. They had made most changes without spoiling the inherent beauty of the place.

After leisurely exploring the fort, taking in the views (which were fantastic as the clouds lifted away) and having food, we were ready to descend. As we descended it started raining and the wind was very strong. I had heard about strong winds on this fort and though I have experienced worse, I could imagine the force on a very rainy day.

By twelve we were comfortably back (we started at nine) and we even got home in time for lunch; surely one of the shortest treks I have had!

Water tank on top of Rohida Fort

Photos at:
https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/RohidaFort

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TREK TO MATHERAN VIA ONE-TREE HILL - EID SPECIAL HIKE

On the way to Matheran from the Shivaji Ladder/One Tree Hill route

After a not so wet trek we were waiting for the rain on the weekend. Saturday went by with hardly a drop, so we called off the Sunday program, only to wake up next day amid pouring rain. Since Tuesday was Eid we decided to take advantage of the holiday and planned a trek close to Mumbai. And what better place is there to trek near Mumbai than Matheran!

We decided to take a later morning train than the usual early one to Karjat. As I walked to Dadar station, it was raining already. The portent for the weather was already good. As we alighted at Karjat it was pouring. After a breakfast of tea and vada pav we took a vehicle to Borgaon which lies off the Karjat-Chowk road. We could take the road up to Ambewadi from where the trek to Matheran via Shivaji Ladder up to One-Tree Hill starts.

Ambewadi overlooks the backwaters of Morbe Dam. A well near the village is the marker for the starting of the trek. From here a sharp grassy ridge leads towards Matheran. The clouds were playing hide and seek with us, offering us glimpses of the valleys and mountains around. Everything was lush and green and wet as it should be on a monsoon hike. After some steep climbing we started entering the forest. My friend remarked it was the enchanted forest and it couldn’t be truer. A lovely walk through thick forest in the middle of heavy rain was just what we had been waiting for.

The pièce de resistance of the trek is the Shivaji Ladder which is a name given to the route by which Shivaji is said to have climbed up to Matheran. A small shrine is a marker for this route and there is actually no ladder but a waterfall through which one has to climb. The route skirts the waterfall here and there but at times you just climb through the waterfall. Climbing between the cascading water swollen with rain was a high point!

Eventually the route leaves the waterfall towards the end and one climbs upto the One-Tree Hill point on Matheran and the dark forests of the hill station greet you. From here its a long flat walk to the main market. In the middle of the week, on a rainy day, there were very few people around and the lovely roads of Matheran were misty and moody, just the way they should be!

My very first hike was this very one many years ago. At that time we started from Chowk phata on Bombay-Pune road, through the valley which is now submerged by the waters of Morbe Dam. Ambewadi was a half-way point on that trek. The route to One-Tree Hill has always been a beautiful hike and it was unimaginably beautiful to me on that very first hike. Years later it still is a fantastic trek. Change is inevitable but the newer hikes feel somewhat inferior versions of the old ones (I had a similar experience with the changed Shidi Ghat at Bhimashankar). I miss the earlier experiences when things were less accessible, there were fewer trekkers and even less litter.  All that is left now are the awesome memories of experiences that are now just no longer possible.

Pics at:
https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/MatheranViaShivajiLadder

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TREK TO TANDULWADI FORT

The monsoon in 2014 was absentee in June so I had to wait avidly till July for any trekking to begin. Luckily the rains arrived in July and I was off initially to Bhimashankar (again). That trek always gets trekkers by the dozen during rains, though this time there were much fewer groups. However the thought of going to an offbeat place where one could almost enjoy the location exclusively for a while was tempting!

So I zeroed on to Tandulwadi fort, a small mountain just outside the western suburbs of Mumbai. We took a fast train to Dahanu and got down at Safale station (second station after Virar). From Safale one can either get a bus or a shared auto to go to Tandulwadi phata. From here a short walk on the tar road takes one to the base village from where this fort is easily visible.

Tandulwadi fort from base village

We had cloudy skies so there was promise of rain when we started. The trek starts from a small pond outside the village. One has to go from the left side of the pond and ascend gradually. The ascent takes us to a plateau. The first point on plateau is kind of a pass; it windy out here. There are a few paths that meet at this point and we took the right one. The route then on traverses this plateau and eventually enters into the forest near the main massif of the fort. This is where things get a bit tricky and a guide would be helpful.

We back-tracked a bit but found the correct path. We luckily met two other hikers who were also lost and phoning their friends for directions. We followed our instincts and traversed a bit more before entering the forest. Ultimately we met the two guys who had more luck with one of our ‘failed paths’. Through the forest now the climb is steep and after a solid climb of half an hour we were on top. Rain was scarce but that meant lovely views all around.

On the top one has to walk for a while through lovely forest (especially a grove of cacti) till one starts seeing remnants of the fort. We saw a carved tank that was empty. We saw some walls and a few steps. Other than that there is hardly anything of the old fort left. On top we had lunch as we gazed on the surrounding countryside. We did see the confluence of two rivers which was great. The wind was strong on the top and soon we had a burst of rain that continued till we descended.

Descent was quicker and we were back quickly to the base village. We took an auto (charge ten bucks per person) to Safale station and took a train to Dadar at quarter past four. This is a comparatively easy outing in the rains and easily accessible from Mumbai – we were home comfortably by six!

Pics posted at:

https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/TandulwadiFort

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Nane Ghat Trek

View from Nane Ghat top

Perhaps it was the fact it was a Saturday or because the monsoon has been so sluggish since August, that  when we went to Nane Ghat couple of weeks ago, there were not a trekker to be found in what is one of the most accessible trekking spots near Malshej Ghat. For those not in the know, Nane Ghat is an old pass that functioned as a trading route in ancient times (going back to 250 B.C.) between Kalyan in Konkan and Junnar town on Deccan plateau. Only used by villagers, this is a fairly easy and enjoyable hike in what is one of the most beautiful regions of Sahyadris in Maharashtra.

The rain gods did not deliver but monsoon has been good this year and all the streams were flowing. We almost stopped at every stream which offered cool, refreshing respite from the humidity. However the absence of any visitors was wonderful and views from the top were great. Flowers were also blooming particularly as we gained height and recently having found out some names, I am putting up pics of the wonderful wild flowers that dot these hills around August-September.

Sontaki (Senecio Grahamii)

Pink Balsams

Travelling: You can catch a bus going to Ale Phata from Kalyan (there are plenty) – this is the road leading to Malshej Ghat (NH222) via Murbad. Ask bus to stop at Nane Ghat stop (there is a board on the main road that announces the starting point). If going by car park it at Vaishakhare village (30 kms ahead of Murbad) – from here you walk a couple of kilometres on main road till the Nane Ghat board comes. You can return same way or go ahead to Junnar and take a long bus ride to come back to Kalyan. (Buses to Pune available from Junnar). Jivdhan fort above Nane Ghat is also a great fort to climb. Caves at Nane Ghat are habitable but tend to get crowded at times.

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Ghangad: Far (Very Far) Away From The Maddening Crowd

Last weekend for a change, I wanted to venture out to an area where I had not hiked much. Ghangad is a small fort located some 40 kms from Lonavala, near the backwaters of Mulshi dam. A tricky rock patch requiring equipment was the reason this fort had not been attempted but thanks to an enterprising trekking group, ladders and ropes have been installed making things much easier. With that information in hand I was off in the morning to Lonavala, waiting for the rest of my group, who were coming from Pune.

Approaching Ghangad from Ekole village

The drive to Ghangad is probably one of the best in the country: the road is smooth, the greenery around is enticing and best of all in the rains, the area is completely misty for long stretches. However this dream ride only lasts till Ambavne – this village is near Korigad fort and now more importantly near Amby valley. After this point, a bifurcation takes you towards Bhamburde village and since there are no high-flying city types coming this way, the road quality really dips down.

The route goes through Salter village (near Telbaila massif) and finally to Bhamburde; at places the road was so narrow that it was difficult to imagine an ST bus on it! Bhamburde village rests idyllically in what seems like a valley surrounded by large hills; the smallest of these is Ghangad.

We walked from Bhamburde to Ekole village at the base of Ghangad. The fort is quite small and one can finish it in an hour and a half from the base. Initially a large ugly track leads to the forest; once inside the forest, a more natural small path takes one to the temple of Garjai devi.  A useful map of the fort  is posted here. Moving ahead one reaches a col between Ghangad and a giant neighbouring hill. From here one can see the hills falling steeply into Konkan.

Valley behind Ghangad fort

A short walk takes one to the fortification of the hill. Once inside, you move to a rock face where a ladder has been kept. Inspite of the ladder, in the rainy season, there is a tricky step one has to negotiate; after that its a steep but safe route to top across crumbling steps and bastions. On the top there are a few tanks and two bastions; its the views that are marvellous. The hills around enclose a plain area at the edge of which across Ghangad stands the double peaked massif called Telbaila; all of this eventually falls down into Konkan and the deep valleys are fantastic. One can also see Sudhagad (its nearer to Telbaila); on my previous treks to Sudhagad, I have always wondered at these valleys and where they go; now I know!

Descent was quick and in no time the hike was done! On the way back, our road was still misty even in the afternoon, but as one nears Lonavala, the maddening crowds near Bushy Dam make one cringe! When will Indians know how to enjoy and respect nature?!

Travelling: ST buses ply between Lonavla and Bhamburde (apparently twice a day, once in morning and once in afternoon). Best way would be to have your own transport. Cars can go beyond Bhamburde, right upto Ekole village. One can also descend down into Konkan (near Sudhagad) via Ekole village (4-5 hours route)

https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/Ghangad?authuser=0&feat=directlink

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CHANDERI FORT- SO CLOSE YET FAR....

Chanderi (right) and Mhasmal (left) - the route to both rise to the 'V' point between the two

The Matheran range and surrounding hills have been the usual suspects for most of my monsoon treks. So its a surprise to find any trekking point not visited in the vicinity. After an earlier trip to Irshalgad, it was now turn of Chanderi – another mountain that I always had wanted to climb but somehow just had not yet.

Chanderi fort has a sharp, squarish massif at the top which requires technical rock climbing. Probably due to this reason, it was passed over for other destinations. However its turn had come and on a Sunday morning, I was waiting for the Karjat local from Dadar station. However I missed my train and as a result we started the trek late at around ten.

The fort seems to be close to Bombay; after all you just hop on to the local. But the base village of Chinchavli is far from Vangani station where one alights from the local and even from Chinchavli its a half an hour walk till the base.

Once the climb begins it is relentless as one has to ascend to a col between Chanderi and Mhasmal. The route is beautiful as it skirts around a waterfall, sometimes even going right through it. It was a cloudy day with little or no drizzle but the waterfall was gurgling with water and just the sound itself was refreshing. The feeling of being somewhere remote was very strong as the forest around was very thick and verdant.

The climb was longer than expected and we rested at the col, gazing at the view on the other side which looks towards Panvel. On one side of the col, we could see the sharp top of Mhasmal but our fort could not be seen yet, hidden as it was in the clouds. We took the left turn and began climbing a sharp, steep ridge. Eventually we could the towering Chanderi massif with a few trekkers dotted at its base. The views at the base of the massif were great; we could see Prabal and Irshalgad and even Morbe dam backwaters.

We were famished and had lunch. We decided to have a look at the cave on the fort; it was not the cleanest but it can house a good 10-12 people. We could see clouds charging towards us and soon enough it began to rain. The rain died out after some minutes but it was misty and windy. Going back, as we descended the ridge, we could feel the force of the wind; any stronger and we could have rolled down into the valley!

The ascent took around three hours and descent was quick though the gradient is steep and slippery. We could not resist taking a dip in the waterfall. Even though this is trek route, there are enough private spots in the cascades to enjoy. And somehow on this hike, despite presence of several trekking groups one still felt alone and could enjoy nature peacefully. And speaking of groups, one inexperienced large groups of college-going kids was climbing up at three, still an hour away from the top and they had started at ten like us! If you are newbie to trekking, give this one a miss! For those who are seasoned monsoon trekkers, don’t let this one get away!

Directions: Catch the Karjat local and get down at Vangani station (before Neral - the stop for Matheran). An auto takes one to Chinchavli which is about half an hour away. Take the driver's number as there is no ST bus to the village

Pics at:

 https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/Chanderi?authuser=0&feat=directlink

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Irshalgad - The One That Got Away

There are very few places left around Mumbai where I have not trekked as yet. One of those is Irshalgad, a sharply peaked hill that cannot be missed on the old Mumbai-Pune road. Somehow I missed this trek, having been to almost all the mountains around it. So I tagged along with a commercial group that was heading that way on what was ‘friendship day’.

Irshalgad pinnacles

Now I am not one for commercial groups as they are too big and noisy for me personally. I enjoy the intimacy of a trek with friends. Plus there is the benefit of setting the pace and itinerary as one wishes. Nevertheless here I was on a Sunday which was also the aforementioned ‘friendship day’ – luckily for me, many people had more celebratory ideas in the city and ditched the hiking group. As a result we were a group of about ten, on our way to Chowk via Karjat.

The hike starts at the Morbe Dam colony near Chowk phata on the Mumbai-Pune old road. From the colony, a sharp ridge rises towards Irshalgad. Once you are high up on this ridge, Irshalgad is visible with its sharp pinnacles and its ‘needle-hole’ point. The ridge takes you to Irshalwadi, a small hamlet on a plateau dotted with grassy expanses and tiny rice fields.

We had a heavy downpour when the hike started but later there were only clouds. The clouds played hide and seek with the sun, affording us great views all around. On one side you could see Matheran and on the other the imposing Prabalgad. From the village, we walked  towards the other end of the massif and then gradually climbed up a sharp ridge to the top. Its difficult to scale the rocky tops of this mountain; the route from the ridge eventually starts zigzagging through rocks and gets narrower. I suppose as one goes ahead it just gets more exposed as well.

We did not go too much on the rocks and instead enjoyed the peace and quiet. We were only warming up to each other as we had started the morning as strangers. We had lunch at the top and lazed around for a while enjoying the scenery. This is a small trek and a couple of hours is the most it will take you to reach the top!

Travelling: You can take the Karjat local and then a private vehicle or a local ST bus to Chowk and then to Morbe Dam colony or Poinje village. Shorter way would be to take the Panvel local and reach Chowk and then the base villages. Those with stamina can try combining Prabalgad and Irshalgad together for a robust workout!

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Yet again to Bhimashankar

Two weeks back I returned to Bhimashankar – crowds were expected as it was a Saturday. We, ourselves were a group of fifteen or so, hurtling towards Khandas (the base village) in an air-conditioned chartered bus! We planned only to climb and the bus would  pick us up at Bhimashankar top. We went by the Ganesh Ghat route which is long but easier. It did not rain for the first half but the weather was beautiful with mists swirling about us even at lower heights. Later it rained as we gained height. Long walks, watery paths, misty views, cascading waterfalls, grassy slopes, thick dark forests; we enjoyed it all. Beautiful as it all was, it was not a patch on my previous fantastic visit in 2010..(http://monsoontrekker.blogspot.in/2010/08/awesome-beauty-of-bhimashankar-trek.html) 

Still, it was a Saturday well spent! Only the long way back from Bhimashankar to Bombay proved to be irritating – almost six hours in a bus after a long trek!

Bhimashankar in the rains

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Kotligad

The rains have hit the country and how! With the heavy downpours and torrential rains that have been making news it almost seemed certain that the first hike this monsoon would be a wet one. Not quite!

Kotligad is a small fort near Karjat and a good bet for an easy hike. A train to Karjat and then a bus or local vehicles to base village Ambivali (via Kashele) make reaching the fort relatively easy. The trek involves a moderate gradient at first, followed by a flat walk on the plateau till the base village of Peth and a final short steep climb to the pinnacle. It is an easy trek with good views and well-marked routes (it is difficult to get lost!).

However when we started the sun was beating down on us. There were two friends in our group, new to Bombay, who had never done a rainy hike and wondered what the fuss was about trekking in rains. As rivers of sweat began to flow prayers for some cloud relief (and a few harmless bets on whether it would rain) punctuated the conversation.

However one-third way up when we rested at a point where the plateau and the fort first come into view, clouds seemed to be gathering. As the hike progressed, the weather improved. By the time we reached the village of Peth, it was raining nicely. At the village there is shelter and food available for a price, thanks to enterprising villagers cashing on the trek’s popularity.

One has to walk ahead of the village towards a small settlement from where the final climb begins. After the climb, one traverses the final hump and climbs onto a ridge that takes one towards remnants of the fort. At the base of the final pinnacle is a cave; a staircase is carved inside of the cave which takes one towards the highest point of the fort. At the top there is nothing much but views; when clear Bhimashankar and Padar Killa are visible.

In the end though we started with the sun, we got the views and then we got the rain. The showers brought a refreshing coolness turning climbing paths into miniature cascades while the clouds and mist played hide and seek in the hills. This was almost a textbook hike for explaining our new trekkers what magic the rains bring to the mountains!

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RINGING IN A NEW YEAR AT RATANGAD

The first weekend of 2013 and already out on a trek! A trek that almost did not happen as a group of seven whittled down to three! And what a shame those people did not make it because the weather was so good, the scenery was so spectacular and the area was so bereft of crowds.

Travelling to Ratangad is like going back in time; this is the third time I’ve done the trek and the markers and turns are almost etched in mind, despite the large gaps between the visits. Situated at the edge of the ghats, towering over Bhandardhara lake, Ratangad or ‘jewel among forts’ is a wonderful trek, albeit one that involves a long journey.

And we journeyed long, having reached late in the evening at Bhandardhara lake and missed the boat across to Ratanwadi. We had to drive in darkness on narrow roads and took shelter in the village of Udhavne (below Alang). At dawn the cold was crisp and deadly and getting out of sleeping bags was almost a torture. But we were again on the road and reached Ratanwadi, which has changed and boasts public toilets and a small parking lot now.

The trek then was the usual (to what I did back in 2008 and faithfully recorded on this blog). Arrows directed us through the dried stream beds, the forest and up the ladders (these too were new). At the top in the cave a village couple serves hot rustic meals on demand. While they were busy cooking for us, we took a tour of the fort. The views of Ajoba and neighbouring hills are awesome as always. Skirting tanks and old broken doorways, we made our way to the ‘nedhe’ or hole in the summit, where a wonderful wind blew and connected the two sides of the mountain. Looking back I’ll wonder how idyllic it all was, a Sunday away from the hectic city life.

But time ticks away and we had to be back to take in our lunch: hot bhakris, a delicious vegetable of potatoes and pulses and the pièce de resistance- a hot spicy ‘thecha’ of freshly ground chillies. After the lunch it was a quick descent because we had spent more time than expected wandering on the top. At four we touched base near the car and were ready to speed away back to home.

Surreal that moments ago we were on top of the world, in a hole in the mountain. A moment in time to remember and treasure for the three of us who happened to be fortunate there and then!

Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/Ratangad2013

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ALANG-MADANGAD – COMPLETING THE HOLY TRINITY

On top of Alang fort

For any seasoned hiker in Sayhadris, it is not Kalsubai, the highest mountain of the state that holds the greatest challenge. Rather, its Kalsubai’s formidable neighbours, that strike the serious trekker in awe. I am talking about the holy trinity of Kulang, Madangad and Alang – the three forts that rise mightily and involve heavy-duty trekking.

Having climbed Kulang several  years ago, Alang and Madangad had been on me and my brothers’ wish lists but not having done serious rock-climbing, they had remained out of reach. Now that one of us knew how it was done, we were raring to go.

Except our adventure sputtered right from the start in characteristic fashion of people dropping in and out of the hike (myself included!). Finally we were reduced to three when we boarded the last local to Kasara. A jeep had been arranged to take us to Ambewadi, the base village. Arriving at five, we slept for an hour and got up groggily in cool morning. A little before seven we started for the far off but clear sharp silhouettes of Alang and Madangad.

After a walk across dried fields, we started climbing a forested hill. The climb took us over a ridge falling from Alang. After a flat walk, the incline took us by surprise but once on top, we had to take a long traverse through thick forest that was cool and green. The long traverse soon ended and it was back to climbing on a steep incline over loose soil and scree. Most of the climb was among tall karvi shrubs. Finally we reached a series of broken steps that gave the first indication of a fort on the gigantic mountain.

The steps lead to cave from where, one can continue either to Alang or to Madangad. We decided to first do the latter and took a right, traversing another long stretch of the mountain edge. Finally one reaches the point between Alang and Madangad from where one can see the Ghatgar-Bhandardara catchment area. Moving on, we started traversing the smaller Madangad mountain till we finally reached the steps of this crumbling fort.

The steps at Madangad are steep and large, climbing like a staircase to heaven. The staircase twisted and turned until it finally reached a blown off face where our first rock climb (about 30m I think) started. This was my first big rock climb and went off smoothly. On the top more steps continued till we reached a broken entrance that led to the grassy top. Madangad has a small, handsome top – it’s a small, slanting area bounded on all sides by steep edges and gives fantastic views of Alang and Kulang. On top there are few water tanks and a cave.

After sightseeing, it was time to go down and having never rappelled before, I took some time to get into the act. However once I started, it was cool and I felt it was easier than climbing up. Luckily my two experienced companions were well prepared with all equipment and friendly advice!

We made our way back to the cave and after lunch, moved to tackle Alang.  A small rock patch was just a teaser to the main 50m climb which was daunting. My brother negotiated it easily but I had some tense 15 minutes which felt like eternity when I was stuck 30m off the ground trying to get a hold on a almost vertical rock face. It took some time, before all three of us finished this patch and then on we had to climb some more exposed steps before we reached the top.

Alang has a semicircular shape and its flat top extends spectacularly. There are caves some of which are clean and inhabitable. There are also some tanks, most of which hold impotable water. We rested in the cave and cooked and talked about the eventful day. The sun had set by the time we reached the top so we could not see around much but later after dinner we went off to search water and stumbled upon seven impressive water tanks on the fort. 

Alang, Madangad & Kulang silhouettes

In the morning, it was very cold and since I had done a short night tour of the fort, I slept on while my brother went to see the beautiful sunrise.  In the morning we surveyed the surroundings and in the hazy winter light, we could make out Ratangad and Ajoba far off in the distance. Going down we thought would not take much time but I did not have the nerve to rappel down 50m and kept on having false starts. Finally they belayed me down to save time! A few scrapes and bruises down, there was nothing left but to move on! We were behind our time schedule having started around nine and it was noon but we were still descending. Luckily the forest around Alang was shady and going back was easier. By two-thirty we were back at Ambewadi where we had started.

This was my second rock climbing trek, having done Harischandragad by a tricky route. However here the rock climbs were much longer and difficult. While I won’t be the first person to suggest technical climbs in future I did enjoy the thrills of this trek. It was also an appropriate crackling way to end a great year of hiking! Hope the new year brings equally memorable experiences.

Photos at: https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/AlangMadangad?authuser=0&feat=directlink

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