So it was on a clear sunny day that we found ourselves deposited at Kondana village from where we would start our ascent to Rajmachi fort. Most trekkers choose the long but mostly flat route from Lonavala to reach this well-known twin-peaked fort. To avoid the crowds I chose this route; plus there was the attraction of Kondana caves.
I visited the caves after a long time (might be ten years or so) and now there was a board by the Archaeological Survey. There were proper steps at the entrance. As for the caves they seemed to be in the same dilapidated state but I must admit the villagers (who have a stall or two on the way) have kept them clean. A few miscreants have written on the walls but in this country, it could have been worse.
After resting and taking photos we were on our way to the fort. The route goes through the forest ascending steeply at places. Luckily the forest was verdant and the shade was a relief on a hot and humid day. It seemed it had rained before since water drops fell from the trees now and then. The route passes two flat levels but we rested more than often due to the rising heat. However the views kept getting better.
By the time (about three hours since we began) we had reached the Rajmachi plateau and were drenched in sweat and exhausted. Most of us did not even want to climb the fort in front of us. Though we had a laugh about a topless male trekker who needed some ‘support’ according the girls!
We soon made our way to the Rajmachi village; now even a car can reach it on a dry day. Some people had even come on motorbikes; so much for escaping noise and pollution! Excellent village fare is available though we were told to wait for an hour because of the rush. So we decided to tackle one of Rajmachi’s twin forts.
Between the two forts is an old temple. While we were deciding which fort to ascend, we had nimboo pani sold by another enterprising villager. We chose the higher fort and climbed easily the dry steps (in rains it’s more thrilling!). The fort has good walls and even in its ruined state is an impressive reminder of the heydays of Maratha glory. The views from the top were fantastic; Matheran range, Irshal, Karnala, Shirota Lake, Lonavla were seen. We also saw clouds approaching from a distance and by the time we reached the topmost point, we were surrounded by them. Soon nothing was visible and a light drizzle started. It was a wonderful moment that unfortunately didn’t last for long. By the time we started returning, it was clear and sunny again!
Back at the village we had a delicious lunch of rich bhakris, vegetables, pickle and papad. It was almost three when we left and started to go back. It was hot again despite intermittent cloud cover. But descending was much quicker and we had several trekkers making the same trip (including the topless guy who had now covered his modesty with a big hanky). Towards the end we lost our way, got separated and re-united and realized that we were going to another village because of a longer route. Luckily there were a few tiny streams on the way to refresh us. A trudge of two kilometers on the tar road and we were at Kondivde jostling with other trekkers to get a vehicle to Karjat.
It was a tiring trek on account of the sultry weather and it almost did not feel like a good monsoon hike. Just then the rain gods decided to get smart upon us at the last minute. Oh, the irony! Still waiting for a wet, soaked-to-the-skin hike this year!
As usual photos are posted here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/upsidedownv/RajmachiAndKondanaCaves?feat=directlink