OLD HAUNTS AND NEW FAVOURITES: PEB FORT TO MATHERAN

Matheran as seen from Peb fort

Of all the hikes I have done so far, the one I have done most often is the hike to Matheran from Peb fort. If you are from Bombay, you can’t have it easier: a local train drops you at Neral station, from where you can climb to Peb fort and return back. If you want a tougher experience, traverse the fort and cross over to Matheran hill station following the railway tracks.

For a change, this time a hotel (and not an ordinary one!) had been booked so we could stay over and rest for the night. Though the Peb fort route to Matheran was not our original plan, thanks to someone’s suitcase and laptop, we ended up splitting and choosing this trek. We started off from Neral station towards the countryside. Once this was free land, now it was divided and demarcated by fences causing some detours. However the path is well marked by villagers with painted arrows. For directions otherwise, follow a chain of electric towers in the beginning. The route then ascends steeply for about half an hour through thick jungle which thins out by the time you reach the top.

‘The top’ is actually a sharp narrow ridge leading towards the fort and the views of both the valleys on either side are great. This is tricky during heavy rains as the wind gets pretty intense but we were lucky to have a cloudy sky and at most a drizzle. A few rocky patches gave nightmares to the lone brave girl on this trek but she was a superstar that day (with a little help of course!). The route goes along the cliffs to reach a wall where a shaky but sturdy metal ladder gives access into the fort.

The peak of the fort is a small temple which requires another steep climb but we skipped it and went traversing the grassy top, enjoying the flat walk with fabulous views. We met a group of young trekkers who had also come from Mumbai (Vidyalankar classes trekking club!) who had not been here before. Amidst their fawning over my gear (the bag, the shoes...my dying, worn-out canvas Hunters!) and request for directions, I quite felt the veteran! Two more ladders and we descended the fort with Matheran before us.

Another long walk took us to the Matheran massif:  a V-shaped depression between the mountains is a marker and the wind here is always strong. We traversed from the side of the massif till we reached the final ladder and then onwards steps took us to an arch that announces the railway track is reached. This point is below Panorama Point, the northernmost edge of Matheran hill-station. We separated from the trekking group and started our long trudge to the centre of the hill plateau – Charlotte Lake.

Matheran was made into a summer retreat by the Britishers in the late 1800s and the place is littered with crumbling properties. One such property, Barr House, has being lovingly restored by the good people of Neemrana Resorts (who are now experts at this kind of thing) and the result is the immaculate Veranda in the Jungle. If you have the cash, then this is the place to stay in Matheran. Monsoon is off-season so rates are more affordable. It was my first time and I highly recommend the place!

Finally our hike ended after a six kilometre trudge across Matheran (from rail tracks to hotel) and it was wonderful to unwind with friends after a long, long trek (it took us six hours from base with numerous stops!).  At night, we had Continental dinner in a room with high vaulted ceilings and Colonial furniture, with music playing nearby. Inside the main dining room, the lights were off and other visitors were having food in candle-light. Next morning we would sit in the large veranda of the property, sipping tea, looking out at the mist-covered jungles of Matheran, so serene and beautiful. Moments like this may never happen again – all these friends together at one place, and there couldn’t have been a better way to spend a weekend!

For more pictures here's the link: https://picasaweb.google.com/upsidedownv/MatheranViaPebFort?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOPc6O2omIy4YQ&feat=directlink

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TACKLING TRINGALWADI

My first attempt at Tringalwadi fort in Igatpuri region of Sahyadris was a failure! Not aware of the logistics of reaching the base village, me and my band of novice trekkers had walked on a tar road for several kilometres, reached the base village and seen the lake behind it. Then we trudged towards the caves and decided to call it a day, just at the base of the fort. This time, taking no chances, I decided that going by our own vehicle would solve all the problems. The rain gods have been truant this season but it was July and hoping the weather would be pleasant in Igatpuri as it generally is in monsoons, our little band of trekkers (one novice, others experienced) fit ourselves in a Chevrolet Spark and zoomed off on the Bombay-Nasik road.

Tringalwadi fort from base village

The Kasara ghat was full of clouds and it was a promising vision! Past Igatpuri, we took a diversion from the highway and were on a small road that goes from Takay village to Tringalwadi village. The road was slightly bumpy but we’ve been to worse. This road now extends further to other small hamlets, the last of which is nearest to the Jain caves (locally known as Pandavleni) at the base of the fort. These are badly preserved like all archaeologically significant monuments in the state and we could only get the faintest glimpses of their glory.

From the caves, many routes confusingly move to the small plateau on the top. After some confusion we reached a small hamlet from where another climb starts. There was a light drizzle but the weather was cool and refreshing; watching the mist move near the mountains while the green countryside lay in front of us was a nice sight.

Some more climbing takes you to a crucial point from where two paths diverge at the foot of the fort massif; the one on the right takes you to small steps that lead you to the fort and the one on the left takes you to the Chor Darwaja. We took the easier right route that took us into the fort. The fort top is grassy with only a few water tanks and a couple of ruins. We rested and ate, gazing at the mountains around and then walked along the grassy expanse towards a small temple. In front of the temple is a ‘trishul’ and a flag. With a majestic mountain as a backdrop this is an ideal point to snap pics (which we dutifully did – including a tandav pose with the trishul!).

From the temple we climbed up to reach the highest point of the fort. There is nothing much here except for the view of the countryside. The silence and beauty was wonderful and we lunched enjoying our superior position in the world (a fact that was indirectly conveyed by clicking a pic and sending it online to our friends!). We descended to the lower level and made our way to the other entrance – the Chor Darwaja. The doorway is demarcated by a striking large relief of Lord Hanuman - the monkey god whose orange colour was almost glowing; you have to be flexible and alert to negotiate the gigantic steps of the staircase here especially in the rainy season. The last few steps are destroyed and slightly tricky (as the newbies found out!) A cliff side walk took us to the diversion point of the morning and then it was an easy descent.

Back at the village a water pond invited us and we all jumped in. It was a great relaxing end to a idyllic fun hike! Great way to start the 2012 trekking season; now just praying the rain gods deliver!

Photos at:
https://picasaweb.google.com/upsidedownv/Tringalwadi?authuser=0&feat=directlink

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