RAJGAD IN RAINS
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| Suvela Machi, Rajgad Fort |
Rajgad was the first capital of Shivaji’s kingdom. Fittingly
it is an impressive fort that boasts of wonderful fortifications that are still
intact. Winters are generally a better time to appreciate all the various
points on this spread out fort. However I have always visited it in rains; the
first time we were so soaking wet and cold, we had no energy to explore.
Luckily this time was different.
Rajgad is easy to approach from Pune. On NH4, about 20 kms
from Pune lies Nasrapur phata. From here the road accesses most of the villages
that can be used to climb Rajgad. There are multiple routes to the fort but the
one that seems to be most widely used is from base village of Gunjavne. The
easy accessibility means loads of trekkers; we were greeted with a group of about
a hundred kids readying for their day on the fort!
The climb from Gunjavne is well marked and even if you miss
your way a little bit, you’ll get back on the right track! Initially the route
climbs gently and soon enters the forests around the fort. The weather was luckily
good with light rain and mists, so that it was reasonably cool. As one proceeds
the route starts getting steeper. We soon caught up with the kids who were
struggling a little but very enthusiastic nonetheless! Eventually a small flat
traverse takes one towards a steep rocky patch which has railings for support.
After the patch you enter a small ‘chor darwaja’ and you are suddenly inside
the fort.
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| En route from Gunjavne village via Chor Darwaja |
At the top there was fog everywhere making it difficult to
get bearings. Luckily there are signposts at various points. The fort is
roughly divided into three ‘machis’ – Padmavati, Suvela and Sanjeevani. In
middle of the fort at a height is the ‘Balle Killa’ – the highest point. Our
route took us to Padmavati machi, which is flatter and has a temple, some ruins
and a lovely water tank. We climbed in about 2 hours or so and we had time to
wander so we decided to go to Suvela machi.
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| Water tank at Padmavati Machi |
Rajgad, like Sinhagad, is a source of endless joy and wonder
for Punekars who make regular visits. Even on a Saturday there were hundreds of
people; yet the fort is large enough to be enjoyed in relative peace and quiet.
We met relatives during our walks. Another trekker introduced himself as someone
who had been to Rajgad almost eighty times! A couple of septuagenarians were
climbing as fast as seventeen year olds!
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| Double walled fortification on Suvela Machi |
I had missed exploring Rajgad on an earlier hike almost ten
years ago. This time walking to Suvela machi reinforced the impression that I
had missed something special. Built on a long ridge by Shivaji Maharaj on the
eastern side of the fort, Suvela Machi consists of a double wall along on both
side so the ridge. The fortifications snake their way along the ridge and
walking on the walls was an unforgettable experience. The mist cleared from
time to time making us gasp at the beauty of the fort and its surroundings.
Water tanks, hidden doorways, tunnels – there was so much to explore! I would
definitely like to come back to Rajgad, perhaps by another route which will
allow us to explore another fascinating part of this fort. After all there’s
got to be so much more for a fort that merits eighty visits!
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| Small tunnel at Suvela Machi |
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| Rajgad fort walls - Suvela Machi |