November Rain: Panhala to Pawan Khind - part 1

What constitutes a winter hike? Would long showers, misty hills, green forests make up a monsoon trek? Lately it seems the definitions of seasons are getting blurred; what else could explain the continuing spells of rain this winter season. However I am not complaining!

There were worries that a planned hike in November from Panhala to Vishalgad would involve some perspiration. However when I set out for a night bus headed to Kolhapur it was cloudy and there was rain on the way. Saturday dawned with wet ground and cloudy skies; fellow trekkers from Pune and Sangli were on time and we set out on a beautiful road to Panhala that was flanked by banyan trees on both sides and sugarcane fields all around.

Panhala is one the least-fort like forts I have been to. From Panhala we set out around eight from Pusati-cha Buruj, down a clearly marked path. Once we were at the foothills we went past a small hamlet along a mucky road (mud was to be a feature on this wet winter hike; our shoes were a mess already within first half hour!). A short ascent suddenly led us to the flat expanse of Mhasai Pathar.

Mhasai Pathar is a long plateau completely flat with long grassy grounds. The open-ness was beautiful and surreal; the vistas all around were just of land and sky. We walked on the plateau for about an hour; it’s a great place to be lost in and must be tricky in monsoons. You are on the right path if you reach the Mhasai devi temple, the lone structure on top. A jeep can make way up to the plateau (we saw a car) but for now the plateau is beautifully tranquil.

At the temple as we had breakfast we caught sight of an eagle having his! Next we had to descend to first of the many villages that line this historic route that Shivaji’s brave legion of warriors undertook one stormy night. Kumbharwadi was the first village we had to reach but we missed our way and reached Bindowdi village instead. A small climb through butterfly infested bushes put us back on the correct path.

First stop was Manglaiwadi; the villagers were all out on the roads, drying out grass so that it was almost carpeted out on the roads. Families were out together, sharing work – scenes of simple village life that underscored hardship. It stressed upon me how their life is tuned to the cyclical nature of seasons.

Meanwhile we moved onto Khotwadi where we had our lunch in an old lady’s veranda. There, on the dung-smeared floor, surrounded by inquisitive goats, we rested ourselves, removed our bags and had a hearty lunch. In front of us the old lady washed her prized buffalo under a tap; she was followed by kids filling in their pots and pans. We came, we ate and we left but that tap continued to spill water ceaselessly.

In the afternoon, the clouds seemed to be gathering force. This time, it looked like the rain would stay. As we moved from wadi to wadi, it was clear that this was a hike of grassy walks. At some places it was thigh high, sometimes plain, sometimes blooming, sometimes dry and black, or wet with earlier rain….Rain when it came started came fast. Soon we were surrounded by mist and it looked as if we were in a monsoon outing.

It rained for a long time, the downpour eventually dissolving to a persistent light drizzle. We passed villages: Kalpewadi, Dhangarpada,….our destination finally in the light of our progress was to be Ambewadi. Most people were tired; my shoulders were sore especially my right one which had been suffering due to long hours on the computer. Ambewadi finally appeared and we just could not wait to get out of our wet clothes and shoes. Just walking through the muddy street of Ambewadi mucked our shoes completely!

Photos available here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/upsidedownv/Panhala?feat=directlink