MAHABALESHWAR TO RAIRESHWAR

Last month, at the end of monsoon, I stayed at Mahabaleshwar for a couple of days. There at Arthur’s Seat, along with my uncle, we reminisced about our memorable monsoon trek years ago from Dhavle Ghat which lies way below Arthur’s Seat. Right there the germ of returning and doing a similar trek took hold. So three weeks later we were back after negotiating with a local guide for a cross country trek.

Arthur’s Seat was off-limits for some railings maintainence so we descended from Old Mahabaleshwar. A little path from the main temple leads to another deserted temple at the edge of the mountain. From here the plan was to climb down into the valley, climb the huge mountain plateau of Koleshwar, descend and then climb Raireshwar. Next day we would do the same in reverse, with Kamalgad instead of Koleshwar.

Koleshwar

For an overnight trip we had packed a lot and as a result the heavy load impacted our speed. Initially the weather was great with a cool morning breeze (we started at eight). Down in the valley, we crossed the river that feeds the Balkewadi reservoir and walked towards Jor village (which we had visited years ago on that hike).

Koleshwar is another huge mountain plateau that stretches as long as Mahabaleshwar. Climbing it was tiring especially in the sun-exposed parts. However the top was wonderful and large with a variety of scenery: grassland meadows, fern-filled expanses, dense forests. The views were wonderful too. On the large top there is only one habitation where only two (hospitable) families stay isolated from modern life.

Crossing Koleshwar, we soon could see another huge mountain that was Raireshwar. The descent was long, steep and tiring. By the time we reached a reservoir at the bottom, my shoulders were tired and everyone else was equally exhausted. It was four and the huge hill of Raireshwar loomed in front. Climbing was not an option at it would take us another three plus hours with our heavy loads so we decided to take a vehicle towards a motorable road that passes just below the Raireshwar top. From here one has to walk a little, climb some steps and ladders on the final cliff and then walk for a kilometre across to the settlement. By the time we got our vehicle and finished off the steps, it was nightfall and the  moon shined brightly.

Staying facilities at Raireshwar are good: the villagers are ready to house and feed trekkers. There is only one settlement on this vast plateau. The next morning we woke up late from exhaustion and hence skipped over the sightseeing. Kamalgad was also too much to handle (its an equally huge mountain) and so we took another vehicle that took us to Balkewadi dam. From here we planned to climb up to Kate’s Point of Mahabaleshwar.

Starting almost at noon, this was an arduous climb with our still heavy sacks. On a day with little weight this would have been easier but we were panting and puffing in the heat by the time we stood below Kate’s Point. By the time the hike was over (we relaxed by the spring near Kate’s Point where the water was wonderfully cold) we knew this was one of the toughest hikes so far.

Still it was memorable not only for the heat and endurance but also for the beautiful vistas;  flowers were still blooming at the end of monsoon, springs still had some water left, butterflies were flitting around.... The pleasure of hiking around Mahabaleshwar is the unspoilt wilderness around. Nature at its best!

https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/MahabaleshwarToRaireshwar

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BASGAD: BRINGING THE MONSOON TREKKING SEASON TO AN END WITH A BANG!

September is generally not an active trekking month since the rains peter out and festivals dot the calendar. This year’s monsoon being anything but normal, it was surprising that we were out on a trek this late (23^rd). I was up for Malshej or Igatpuri where we would be at a height when we began our trek and I wanted to go to a place I hadn’t visited before. Basgad or Bhaskargad is an off the radar fort near Jawahar town; somewhat near both Igatpuri and Nasik, at the end of the Trimbakeshwar range, its not the easiest place to reach. We drove from Kasara on a bad road to Khodala and then towards Mokhada. A bifurcation from the main road leads to Khoch village (no signpost!) which is at the base of Utwad mountain.

Our guide took us by a less steeper (!) route that climbs a long ridge from Utwad, then traverses this giant mountain to reach the col between Utwad and Basgad. The weather was cloudy and cool and dotted with drooping yellow flowers. When the ascent started it was long and steep. Grassy ridges finally took us onto a level on Utwad from where we would begin a long traverse through thick vegetation. This was a long walk, with ups and downs, often crossing streams on the way. We had started around ten and it was one, when we reached the col between Basgad and Utwad.

The joys of trekking so late in monsoon are mostly due to the flowers. On the col was a lovely meadow with blue flowers scattered here and there. Below the whole valley lay green and peaceful. But there was still another climb to reach the fort. A steep climb took us to the cliffs of the Basgad massif; here again swaths of balsam (terda) flowers. Who could resist taking photos?! Another traverse in the direction of Nasik takes one towards a staircase and further onto a partially buried darwaja. It was almost two thirty by now and a long descent still awaited us.

For descending we came back to the point where the pink balsams grew at the edge of the cliffs. From here a fantastic path alongside the cliffs took us across with views of the valley around. The path descended on a ridge and here the mountain-side was full of more flowers. It was sunny now but the views were gorgeous. In the distance one could easily see Harihar and Trimbak. The descent was along a sharper ridge which would have been a shorter but even more steeper ascent. The long walk continued for next two hours till we reached a dammed lake that we had seen all through the day. As per tradition, we could not but help jumping in!

This is no hike for beginners and one of our novice trekker saw it testing his limits! But to end a good monsoon trekking season, this was a fittingly climactic and gorgeous end.

How to reach: From Kasara, via Khodala towards Mokhada, take a turn at Khoch phata. An easier route would be from Igatpuri to go towards Nirgudpada (base for Harihar) and ask for Dhadyachi-wadi village from where the route is shorter and easier.

Photos at: https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/Basgad

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SUNDAY AT SUDHAGAD

This year’s monsoon has been anything but normal; the continuing rains in September suddenly opened possibilities. After an aborted attempt last year to Sudhagad, I was determined to return. Though I first visited Sudhagad nine years ago, I remembered it as a beautiful and accessible place.

We set out on the Bombay-Goa road but were delayed by bad roads and traffic. The route from Wadkhal Naka however was lovely as ever and we saw a giant rainbow almost ending in a field (wondering if anybody would find a pot of gold there.....). Sudhagad is far; first we reach Pali –a bifurcation ahead of Nagothane on NH-17. From Pali, another 12 km drive to Pachchapur and then some more to Thakurwadi were the road ends.

From Thakurwadi the route is easy and clearly defined, so much so that many groups come here. On Sunday, as expected there was a bus load of amateurs (uncles, aunties, kids, even grandparents!). However we started last and were left fairly in peace.

The route leads to a metal stairway installed by the villagers and then climbs steadily till you reach the crumbling steps of the fort. The area around Sudhagad, especially towards the main range of Sayhadris is beautiful. From the steps one has to climb further to reach the top plateau. Sudhagad top is a big place with arms of the mountain spreading across. All over the top, there are ruins and remnants of the fort.  In between lie ponds and sacred shrines, some small, some big. There is a palace (actually remnants of a house) of Pant Sachiv where one can camp overnight. Ahead is the temple of Bhoraidevi from where one can proceed to the Mahadarwaja which leads to the Dhondsa route (one which I tried unsuccessfully in 2011).

Ahead of the temple is an atmospheric area with small shrines or samadhis littered among the greenery. Around are beautiful vistas; waterfalls cascading from the main range of the ghats, forests on the faraway arms of Sudhagad mountain, deep interior valleys....It was wonderful to wander around and all of us felt like there was not enough time. You could spend a whole day here and despite the trekker traffic, it is still possible to enjoy peace and quiet.

One can also go to the Chor Darwaja from a route bifurcating just before the temple; it leads through a passage in the mountain outside and is quite fascinating.

The journey back was slow and steady; the mists came and went and we walked on the plateau savouring our Sunday pleasures. Here and there dotted among the grass were tiny flowers that probably bloom for a few days. Our idle holiday would also last for a few hours more but for all of us, it was a wonderful outing, made all the more enjoyable for the heavy rains that made our route down the steps a waterfall. A wonderful footnote to a great monsoon trek! Sudhagad (and the valleys around), hopefully we will be back again!

Photos at: https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/Sudhagad2012

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BAGLAN TREK: SALHER

As our hike to Mulher ended, the clouds had dispersed and the sun was shining brightly. we had taken a dip in a nearby stream, wondering how hot it would be the next day. When we got up next day at six, it was dark and drizzling, but nothing prepared us for the weather when we made our way to Vaghambe for climbing Salher.

Being more towards the west and at higher elevation, the area around Salher is more wet and it was pouring cats and dogs as we started with a guide from the village. Everything in front of us was covered in mist. As we climbed through the fields, nothing was visible.

Flowers and mists on Salher top

We were wet pretty early on but the rain meant that the steep climb was not very exhausting. The route climbs towards Salota, traversing its foothills till the col between the two forts is reached. The route to Salher was lovely with pink flowers blooming on all sides. It led gradually to the carved staircase in the mountain with its crumbling steps and gateways. Unfortunately we could not see anything around nor could my fellow trekkers fully appreciate of how adroitly the way has been constructed through the seemingly impregnable mountain.

On the grassy, fog covered top we walked past caves and tanks. Another steep climb lay ahead from the main cave which is clean and habitable. We wanted to go to the highest point where the Parshuram temple stands. Salher fort is after all the highest fort in Maharashtra and the second highest mountain – quite a jewel in the Baglan range.

At the small Parshuram temple, there was no rain so it was relief after being wet for so long. Returning back the rain had lessened and as we descended some of the fog lifted and I could see the slopes of Salota and the some of the route to the top. Our guide said it was tricky in the rain so we left it; everytime it is the mountain that gets away!

As we descended to Vagambhe, the fog at the bottom had lifted but still the mountains were hidden completely in mist. The hidden mountains were a minor disappointment on an otherwise wonderful hike. It was also the easiest overnight trek I’ve done because we dumped most of our stuff in the car. But it was a great experience to enjoy the northern Sayhadris in the rain.

How to reach: Vagambhe is about 12 kms ahead of Mulher village. Salher fort can also be climbed from Salher village, which further ahead and the route is trickier.

Where to stay: Cave on top of Salher village is clean and large; however it might get smelly as cattle are housed temporarily in neighbouring caverns!

Photos at the Picasa link in the first part of the Baglan trek blog.

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THE BAGLAN TREK: MULHER, MORAGAD, HARGAD

Moragad-Mulher-Hargad Panorama (courtesy: Ameya)

For the yearly August hike (taking place mostly on 15^th but this year shifted to 18^th due to a long weekend) I had planned an outing to Nasik area. I had a painful experience on a hike to Salher-Mulher forts a decade ago after which I vowed not to return to this area for hikes. But time changes people and I was ready to revisit these great forts again.

First on our itinerary (we drove from Nasik on Friday night and reached Saturday morning) was Mulher fort. The fort is actually a twin fort with Mulher and Mora citadels and a third fort Hargad joined by a col. On my earlier trip we had lost our way and probably done only the main fort. This time I was determined to do all three.

Because of the car we reached the foothills passing through and beyond Mulher village. The weather was perfect with light rain and clouds hiding the forts. The first part of the climb takes one to the forested Mulher Machi which is littered with crumbling ruins like the beautiful Ganesh Mandir. A guide is helpful as there are several paths here but it should not be too difficult to reach the top. Several doorways are encountered on the route and the atmosphere was seeped in history. A good climb takes one to a carved Hanuman in the cliff face from where more doorways take one up to the grassy top.

The top is flat with several water tanks and some desolate ruins. Mulher is described as a ‘beautiful’ fort and its an apt description. The route to the top led through a nice forest, now filled with flowering bushes. The top was open and gave us fantastic views all round. The start of the Baglan range with Mangi-Tungi, Tambolya and Nhavi Killa was visible across the plains.

Walking past the whole length of the fort, we moved towards left (eastward) towards the twin fort of Mora. We had to climb down through a Chor Darwaja to reach the steps leading to Mora. The top was smaller than Mulher but equally beautiful giving great views of the neighbouring Mulher fort. There is a large water tank here too above which we sat contemplating the beauty and peace around.

Next on agenda was Hargad. To reach this fort we had to climb down from Mora and then to Mulher machi from the common col. This took us to the revered Someshwar Mandir which was noisier due to frequent visits from villagers (and a baba who has taken permanent residence). We walked along the whole length of the machi towards west to reach the common col between the two forts. Unlike Mora, one has to descend to the Machi level and take a longer walk. A broken gateway is a marker here.

Being higher Hargad is a tougher proposition as the route is up a steep gully which is thickly forested. The climb was strenuous as our guide took us very fast up the route; doorways appeared but the fort top was still far away. At the top, few ruins and bushy expanses greeted us. We were rewarded with beautiful views of Mulher and Mora. Another large water tank on the fort requires a descent but from here the sharp outline of Salota was visible. The top of Hargad played hide and seek in clouds throughout the day but we were lucky to get a break so that we could enjoy the views.

Our visit to Hargad ended as the clouds took over the fort. There is a cannon on the fort but we skipped it and started moving down as we wanted to reach base before nightfall. Descent was quicker and we reached down in good time, moving from the common col of Mulher-Hargad to a long ridge falling from Hargad. Down at the base, my cousin took a panoramic shot of the entire range; looking at the three mountains we felt proud of having done three forts in a day before the sun had set!

How to reach: From Nasik travel to Satana, then Taharabad and finally Mulher village (about 134kms from Nasik).

Where to stay: One can possibly stay at the temples on the machi as the caves on the top are messy. Near Mulher village is Uddhav Maharaj Mandir which is hospitable to trekker and they give out clean rooms to stay and are most helpful and informative.

Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/BaglanTrek?authuser=0&feat=directlink

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SURPRISES AT SINDOLA FORT

After a spell of dry hikes in familiar places, it was time to venture to an unexplored place. Sindola fort is slightly off-radar and not known to many but its right on Malshej Ghat road, ahead of Khubi Phata – the famous signpost for the Harischandragad trek. So on an early Sunday morning, our trio of trekkers set out by car, speeding towards Malshej Ghat.

Sindola fort from base village Bagadwadi

The weather on route was fantastic, especially after Murbad. As we neared the hills, the rain gods delivered and how! The hills were festooned with white waterfalls, crashing and roaring in all their foamy glory. At times our car felt as if it was in the middle of a water explosion. After Khubi, the rain lessened and we could see Sindola fort half hidden in the mists. First surprise, this would be a very very wet hike!

Our destination was Bagadwadi, a detour from the main road. From here, the route gradually climbs up to a level, along a ridge parallel to that of the fort. This route then turns to the right onto the base of the ridge, moving up gradually upwards. The route is confusing and not too well trodden (villagers were also not a common sight but we were lucky to catch a shepherd or two).  A small pond on the ridge (only in rains) is a marker to start climbing. Up the ridge, the route comes in front of the Sindola massif. One has to turn slightly to the left from here (this route was faint while the wrong way that climbs upwards was clear) and traverse the whole massif. Second surprise we got lost (actually not much of a surprise since it happens often!)

The traverse is a bit tricky in places in the rain due to some exposure and wet rocks. The route passes three columns of the massif and then climbs up a deep gully between last two columns of the massif. It is a well protected entrance and a steep climb. Remnants of a wall and a vermillion smeared Ganesha announce entry into the fort. Due to the mist we could not see much of the top which is said to have some tanks. The most interesting thing about Sindola is the unique vegetation: the bushes at the top grow almost perfectly round. The whole top is covered with these bushes and it felt like I was in a tea garden in Darjeeling or somewhere!

We had lost our way while climbing but descent was more straight forward. On the way we had decent views of the mountains around (Nimgiri, Hadsar, Chawand); on the other side of Sindola however, everything was covered in mist beyond the Pimpalgaon lake. For all our predictions,  Sindola turned out to be tougher than expected due to confusing routes and decent amount of walking. It might be easier to approach it from the main road from Karanjale (next stop after Khubi). For detailed instruction refer to this excellent site (not that it stopped us from getting lost!):

www.shrikantescapades.com/2010/12/sindola-fort-trek-page-1.html

Photos at:
https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/Sindola?authuser=0&feat=directlink

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OLD HAUNTS AND NEW FAVOURITES: PEB FORT TO MATHERAN

Matheran as seen from Peb fort

Of all the hikes I have done so far, the one I have done most often is the hike to Matheran from Peb fort. If you are from Bombay, you can’t have it easier: a local train drops you at Neral station, from where you can climb to Peb fort and return back. If you want a tougher experience, traverse the fort and cross over to Matheran hill station following the railway tracks.

For a change, this time a hotel (and not an ordinary one!) had been booked so we could stay over and rest for the night. Though the Peb fort route to Matheran was not our original plan, thanks to someone’s suitcase and laptop, we ended up splitting and choosing this trek. We started off from Neral station towards the countryside. Once this was free land, now it was divided and demarcated by fences causing some detours. However the path is well marked by villagers with painted arrows. For directions otherwise, follow a chain of electric towers in the beginning. The route then ascends steeply for about half an hour through thick jungle which thins out by the time you reach the top.

‘The top’ is actually a sharp narrow ridge leading towards the fort and the views of both the valleys on either side are great. This is tricky during heavy rains as the wind gets pretty intense but we were lucky to have a cloudy sky and at most a drizzle. A few rocky patches gave nightmares to the lone brave girl on this trek but she was a superstar that day (with a little help of course!). The route goes along the cliffs to reach a wall where a shaky but sturdy metal ladder gives access into the fort.

The peak of the fort is a small temple which requires another steep climb but we skipped it and went traversing the grassy top, enjoying the flat walk with fabulous views. We met a group of young trekkers who had also come from Mumbai (Vidyalankar classes trekking club!) who had not been here before. Amidst their fawning over my gear (the bag, the shoes...my dying, worn-out canvas Hunters!) and request for directions, I quite felt the veteran! Two more ladders and we descended the fort with Matheran before us.

Another long walk took us to the Matheran massif:  a V-shaped depression between the mountains is a marker and the wind here is always strong. We traversed from the side of the massif till we reached the final ladder and then onwards steps took us to an arch that announces the railway track is reached. This point is below Panorama Point, the northernmost edge of Matheran hill-station. We separated from the trekking group and started our long trudge to the centre of the hill plateau – Charlotte Lake.

Matheran was made into a summer retreat by the Britishers in the late 1800s and the place is littered with crumbling properties. One such property, Barr House, has being lovingly restored by the good people of Neemrana Resorts (who are now experts at this kind of thing) and the result is the immaculate Veranda in the Jungle. If you have the cash, then this is the place to stay in Matheran. Monsoon is off-season so rates are more affordable. It was my first time and I highly recommend the place!

Finally our hike ended after a six kilometre trudge across Matheran (from rail tracks to hotel) and it was wonderful to unwind with friends after a long, long trek (it took us six hours from base with numerous stops!).  At night, we had Continental dinner in a room with high vaulted ceilings and Colonial furniture, with music playing nearby. Inside the main dining room, the lights were off and other visitors were having food in candle-light. Next morning we would sit in the large veranda of the property, sipping tea, looking out at the mist-covered jungles of Matheran, so serene and beautiful. Moments like this may never happen again – all these friends together at one place, and there couldn’t have been a better way to spend a weekend!

For more pictures here's the link: https://picasaweb.google.com/upsidedownv/MatheranViaPebFort?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOPc6O2omIy4YQ&feat=directlink

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TACKLING TRINGALWADI

My first attempt at Tringalwadi fort in Igatpuri region of Sahyadris was a failure! Not aware of the logistics of reaching the base village, me and my band of novice trekkers had walked on a tar road for several kilometres, reached the base village and seen the lake behind it. Then we trudged towards the caves and decided to call it a day, just at the base of the fort. This time, taking no chances, I decided that going by our own vehicle would solve all the problems. The rain gods have been truant this season but it was July and hoping the weather would be pleasant in Igatpuri as it generally is in monsoons, our little band of trekkers (one novice, others experienced) fit ourselves in a Chevrolet Spark and zoomed off on the Bombay-Nasik road.

Tringalwadi fort from base village

The Kasara ghat was full of clouds and it was a promising vision! Past Igatpuri, we took a diversion from the highway and were on a small road that goes from Takay village to Tringalwadi village. The road was slightly bumpy but we’ve been to worse. This road now extends further to other small hamlets, the last of which is nearest to the Jain caves (locally known as Pandavleni) at the base of the fort. These are badly preserved like all archaeologically significant monuments in the state and we could only get the faintest glimpses of their glory.

From the caves, many routes confusingly move to the small plateau on the top. After some confusion we reached a small hamlet from where another climb starts. There was a light drizzle but the weather was cool and refreshing; watching the mist move near the mountains while the green countryside lay in front of us was a nice sight.

Some more climbing takes you to a crucial point from where two paths diverge at the foot of the fort massif; the one on the right takes you to small steps that lead you to the fort and the one on the left takes you to the Chor Darwaja. We took the easier right route that took us into the fort. The fort top is grassy with only a few water tanks and a couple of ruins. We rested and ate, gazing at the mountains around and then walked along the grassy expanse towards a small temple. In front of the temple is a ‘trishul’ and a flag. With a majestic mountain as a backdrop this is an ideal point to snap pics (which we dutifully did – including a tandav pose with the trishul!).

From the temple we climbed up to reach the highest point of the fort. There is nothing much here except for the view of the countryside. The silence and beauty was wonderful and we lunched enjoying our superior position in the world (a fact that was indirectly conveyed by clicking a pic and sending it online to our friends!). We descended to the lower level and made our way to the other entrance – the Chor Darwaja. The doorway is demarcated by a striking large relief of Lord Hanuman - the monkey god whose orange colour was almost glowing; you have to be flexible and alert to negotiate the gigantic steps of the staircase here especially in the rainy season. The last few steps are destroyed and slightly tricky (as the newbies found out!) A cliff side walk took us to the diversion point of the morning and then it was an easy descent.

Back at the village a water pond invited us and we all jumped in. It was a great relaxing end to a idyllic fun hike! Great way to start the 2012 trekking season; now just praying the rain gods deliver!

Photos at:
https://picasaweb.google.com/upsidedownv/Tringalwadi?authuser=0&feat=directlink

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Bidar: A forgotten fort

I haven't been on a real hike for quite some; taking a year out for studies its been difficult to really plan something...There was one disastrous strike where some of us got swept by an angry stream but after that there's been no trekking at all. At most I have had small outings, one of which happened last month to a dusty old town in Deccan called Bidar.

Bidar is really like a forgotten town; its almost in the middle of nowhere (close to Andhra border, but in Karnataka). It was the capital of the Bahamani Sultans, one of the short lived Muslim empires in southern India. The Bahamani and Barid Shahi Sultans built a large fort in Bidar and a series of tombs outside the city. Our little group of friends went to Bidar because it was close to Hyderabad and is said to have marginally better weather (very true!).

The old town in Bidar is almost medieval in appearance; all short buildings, narrow lanes (save for a few main roads) and no trees. In the centre of the town was the Chabutara, a clock tower and on the way to the fort were the remains of the an old university founded by an Iranian scholar. The fort is very impressive; its huge walls encompass a large area - I believe it is one of the biggest forts in India. You can drive through the series of successive walls (since Bidar was more or less flat, three series of walls were built to hold of invaders). The  fantastic walls and gateways take you towards the archaelogical museum which overlooks a series of pristine green lawns; that was the only greenery around for miles!

A downer at Bidar is that many of the monuments are supposedly under restoration and out of bounds for most visitors (there are hardly any visitors at Bidar and we barely saw a couple of groups around). Not much restoration seems to be happening, but we managed to sneak inside the 'Rangeen Mahal' which is fabulous: wood interiors and mosaic work dating back to 15th century exists and gives an idea of the grandeur of bygone era. Mean while the vast expanse of the fort is dotted with other monuments (some of which were a backdrop for a Vidya Balan number from her hit 'Dirty Picture'. The great thing about Bidar was that it was quite, free of crowds and atmospheric with its long stretches of ruins and walls.

Later we went to the derelict and even much more off-the-radar Bahamani tombs. These too are mostly closed (a feature with Bidar!). However one single tomb was open and at first though there was nothing you could see in the darkened interior, a few minutes were needed to start noticing the painted interiors of the large tomb. Though severely damaged, the entire dome and many walls were decorated with beautiful non-figurative Islamic paintings.It was wondrous to see the detail and beauty as the eye adjusted to the dark and a feeling of privilege to see ancient examples of Indian painting still alive on walls....

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