This year’s monsoon has been anything but normal; the
continuing rains in September suddenly opened possibilities. After an aborted
attempt last year to Sudhagad, I was determined to return. Though I first visited
Sudhagad nine years ago, I remembered it as a beautiful and accessible place.
We set out on the Bombay-Goa road but were delayed by bad
roads and traffic. The route from Wadkhal Naka however was lovely as ever and
we saw a giant rainbow almost ending in a field (wondering if anybody would
find a pot of gold there.....). Sudhagad is far; first we reach Pali –a bifurcation
ahead of Nagothane on NH-17. From Pali, another 12 km drive to Pachchapur and
then some more to Thakurwadi were the road ends.
From Thakurwadi the route is easy and clearly defined, so
much so that many groups come here. On Sunday, as expected there was a bus load
of amateurs (uncles, aunties, kids, even grandparents!). However we started last
and were left fairly in peace.
The route leads to a metal stairway installed by the
villagers and then climbs steadily till you reach the crumbling steps of the
fort. The area around Sudhagad, especially towards the main range of Sayhadris
is beautiful. From the steps one has to climb further to reach the top plateau.
Sudhagad top is a big place with arms of the mountain spreading across. All
over the top, there are ruins and remnants of the fort. In between lie ponds and sacred shrines, some
small, some big. There is a palace (actually remnants of a house) of Pant
Sachiv where one can camp overnight. Ahead is the temple of Bhoraidevi from
where one can proceed to the Mahadarwaja which leads to the Dhondsa route (one
which I tried unsuccessfully in 2011).
Ahead of the temple is an atmospheric area with small
shrines or samadhis littered among the greenery. Around are beautiful vistas;
waterfalls cascading from the main range of the ghats, forests on the faraway
arms of Sudhagad mountain, deep interior valleys....It was wonderful to wander
around and all of us felt like there was not enough time. You could spend a whole
day here and despite the trekker traffic, it is still possible to enjoy peace
and quiet.
One can also go to the Chor Darwaja from a route bifurcating
just before the temple; it leads through a passage in the mountain outside and
is quite fascinating.
The journey back was slow and steady; the mists came and
went and we walked on the plateau savouring our Sunday pleasures. Here and
there dotted among the grass were tiny flowers that probably bloom for a few
days. Our idle holiday would also last for a few hours more but for all of us,
it was a wonderful outing, made all the more enjoyable for the heavy rains that
made our route down the steps a waterfall. A wonderful footnote to a great
monsoon trek! Sudhagad (and the valleys around), hopefully we will be back
again!
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