BASGAD: BRINGING THE MONSOON TREKKING SEASON TO AN END WITH A BANG!

September is generally not an active trekking month since the rains peter out and festivals dot the calendar. This year’s monsoon being anything but normal, it was surprising that we were out on a trek this late (23^rd). I was up for Malshej or Igatpuri where we would be at a height when we began our trek and I wanted to go to a place I hadn’t visited before. Basgad or Bhaskargad is an off the radar fort near Jawahar town; somewhat near both Igatpuri and Nasik, at the end of the Trimbakeshwar range, its not the easiest place to reach. We drove from Kasara on a bad road to Khodala and then towards Mokhada. A bifurcation from the main road leads to Khoch village (no signpost!) which is at the base of Utwad mountain.

Our guide took us by a less steeper (!) route that climbs a long ridge from Utwad, then traverses this giant mountain to reach the col between Utwad and Basgad. The weather was cloudy and cool and dotted with drooping yellow flowers. When the ascent started it was long and steep. Grassy ridges finally took us onto a level on Utwad from where we would begin a long traverse through thick vegetation. This was a long walk, with ups and downs, often crossing streams on the way. We had started around ten and it was one, when we reached the col between Basgad and Utwad.

The joys of trekking so late in monsoon are mostly due to the flowers. On the col was a lovely meadow with blue flowers scattered here and there. Below the whole valley lay green and peaceful. But there was still another climb to reach the fort. A steep climb took us to the cliffs of the Basgad massif; here again swaths of balsam (terda) flowers. Who could resist taking photos?! Another traverse in the direction of Nasik takes one towards a staircase and further onto a partially buried darwaja. It was almost two thirty by now and a long descent still awaited us.

For descending we came back to the point where the pink balsams grew at the edge of the cliffs. From here a fantastic path alongside the cliffs took us across with views of the valley around. The path descended on a ridge and here the mountain-side was full of more flowers. It was sunny now but the views were gorgeous. In the distance one could easily see Harihar and Trimbak. The descent was along a sharper ridge which would have been a shorter but even more steeper ascent. The long walk continued for next two hours till we reached a dammed lake that we had seen all through the day. As per tradition, we could not but help jumping in!

This is no hike for beginners and one of our novice trekker saw it testing his limits! But to end a good monsoon trekking season, this was a fittingly climactic and gorgeous end.

How to reach: From Kasara, via Khodala towards Mokhada, take a turn at Khoch phata. An easier route would be from Igatpuri to go towards Nirgudpada (base for Harihar) and ask for Dhadyachi-wadi village from where the route is shorter and easier.

Photos at: https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/Basgad

Read Full Story...

SUNDAY AT SUDHAGAD

This year’s monsoon has been anything but normal; the continuing rains in September suddenly opened possibilities. After an aborted attempt last year to Sudhagad, I was determined to return. Though I first visited Sudhagad nine years ago, I remembered it as a beautiful and accessible place.

We set out on the Bombay-Goa road but were delayed by bad roads and traffic. The route from Wadkhal Naka however was lovely as ever and we saw a giant rainbow almost ending in a field (wondering if anybody would find a pot of gold there.....). Sudhagad is far; first we reach Pali –a bifurcation ahead of Nagothane on NH-17. From Pali, another 12 km drive to Pachchapur and then some more to Thakurwadi were the road ends.

From Thakurwadi the route is easy and clearly defined, so much so that many groups come here. On Sunday, as expected there was a bus load of amateurs (uncles, aunties, kids, even grandparents!). However we started last and were left fairly in peace.

The route leads to a metal stairway installed by the villagers and then climbs steadily till you reach the crumbling steps of the fort. The area around Sudhagad, especially towards the main range of Sayhadris is beautiful. From the steps one has to climb further to reach the top plateau. Sudhagad top is a big place with arms of the mountain spreading across. All over the top, there are ruins and remnants of the fort.  In between lie ponds and sacred shrines, some small, some big. There is a palace (actually remnants of a house) of Pant Sachiv where one can camp overnight. Ahead is the temple of Bhoraidevi from where one can proceed to the Mahadarwaja which leads to the Dhondsa route (one which I tried unsuccessfully in 2011).

Ahead of the temple is an atmospheric area with small shrines or samadhis littered among the greenery. Around are beautiful vistas; waterfalls cascading from the main range of the ghats, forests on the faraway arms of Sudhagad mountain, deep interior valleys....It was wonderful to wander around and all of us felt like there was not enough time. You could spend a whole day here and despite the trekker traffic, it is still possible to enjoy peace and quiet.

One can also go to the Chor Darwaja from a route bifurcating just before the temple; it leads through a passage in the mountain outside and is quite fascinating.

The journey back was slow and steady; the mists came and went and we walked on the plateau savouring our Sunday pleasures. Here and there dotted among the grass were tiny flowers that probably bloom for a few days. Our idle holiday would also last for a few hours more but for all of us, it was a wonderful outing, made all the more enjoyable for the heavy rains that made our route down the steps a waterfall. A wonderful footnote to a great monsoon trek! Sudhagad (and the valleys around), hopefully we will be back again!

Photos at: https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/Sudhagad2012

Read Full Story...

BAGLAN TREK: SALHER

As our hike to Mulher ended, the clouds had dispersed and the sun was shining brightly. we had taken a dip in a nearby stream, wondering how hot it would be the next day. When we got up next day at six, it was dark and drizzling, but nothing prepared us for the weather when we made our way to Vaghambe for climbing Salher.

Being more towards the west and at higher elevation, the area around Salher is more wet and it was pouring cats and dogs as we started with a guide from the village. Everything in front of us was covered in mist. As we climbed through the fields, nothing was visible.

Flowers and mists on Salher top

We were wet pretty early on but the rain meant that the steep climb was not very exhausting. The route climbs towards Salota, traversing its foothills till the col between the two forts is reached. The route to Salher was lovely with pink flowers blooming on all sides. It led gradually to the carved staircase in the mountain with its crumbling steps and gateways. Unfortunately we could not see anything around nor could my fellow trekkers fully appreciate of how adroitly the way has been constructed through the seemingly impregnable mountain.

On the grassy, fog covered top we walked past caves and tanks. Another steep climb lay ahead from the main cave which is clean and habitable. We wanted to go to the highest point where the Parshuram temple stands. Salher fort is after all the highest fort in Maharashtra and the second highest mountain – quite a jewel in the Baglan range.

At the small Parshuram temple, there was no rain so it was relief after being wet for so long. Returning back the rain had lessened and as we descended some of the fog lifted and I could see the slopes of Salota and the some of the route to the top. Our guide said it was tricky in the rain so we left it; everytime it is the mountain that gets away!

As we descended to Vagambhe, the fog at the bottom had lifted but still the mountains were hidden completely in mist. The hidden mountains were a minor disappointment on an otherwise wonderful hike. It was also the easiest overnight trek I’ve done because we dumped most of our stuff in the car. But it was a great experience to enjoy the northern Sayhadris in the rain.

How to reach: Vagambhe is about 12 kms ahead of Mulher village. Salher fort can also be climbed from Salher village, which further ahead and the route is trickier.

Where to stay: Cave on top of Salher village is clean and large; however it might get smelly as cattle are housed temporarily in neighbouring caverns!

Photos at the Picasa link in the first part of the Baglan trek blog.

Read Full Story...

THE BAGLAN TREK: MULHER, MORAGAD, HARGAD

Moragad-Mulher-Hargad Panorama (courtesy: Ameya)

For the yearly August hike (taking place mostly on 15^th but this year shifted to 18^th due to a long weekend) I had planned an outing to Nasik area. I had a painful experience on a hike to Salher-Mulher forts a decade ago after which I vowed not to return to this area for hikes. But time changes people and I was ready to revisit these great forts again.

First on our itinerary (we drove from Nasik on Friday night and reached Saturday morning) was Mulher fort. The fort is actually a twin fort with Mulher and Mora citadels and a third fort Hargad joined by a col. On my earlier trip we had lost our way and probably done only the main fort. This time I was determined to do all three.

Because of the car we reached the foothills passing through and beyond Mulher village. The weather was perfect with light rain and clouds hiding the forts. The first part of the climb takes one to the forested Mulher Machi which is littered with crumbling ruins like the beautiful Ganesh Mandir. A guide is helpful as there are several paths here but it should not be too difficult to reach the top. Several doorways are encountered on the route and the atmosphere was seeped in history. A good climb takes one to a carved Hanuman in the cliff face from where more doorways take one up to the grassy top.

The top is flat with several water tanks and some desolate ruins. Mulher is described as a ‘beautiful’ fort and its an apt description. The route to the top led through a nice forest, now filled with flowering bushes. The top was open and gave us fantastic views all round. The start of the Baglan range with Mangi-Tungi, Tambolya and Nhavi Killa was visible across the plains.

Walking past the whole length of the fort, we moved towards left (eastward) towards the twin fort of Mora. We had to climb down through a Chor Darwaja to reach the steps leading to Mora. The top was smaller than Mulher but equally beautiful giving great views of the neighbouring Mulher fort. There is a large water tank here too above which we sat contemplating the beauty and peace around.

Next on agenda was Hargad. To reach this fort we had to climb down from Mora and then to Mulher machi from the common col. This took us to the revered Someshwar Mandir which was noisier due to frequent visits from villagers (and a baba who has taken permanent residence). We walked along the whole length of the machi towards west to reach the common col between the two forts. Unlike Mora, one has to descend to the Machi level and take a longer walk. A broken gateway is a marker here.

Being higher Hargad is a tougher proposition as the route is up a steep gully which is thickly forested. The climb was strenuous as our guide took us very fast up the route; doorways appeared but the fort top was still far away. At the top, few ruins and bushy expanses greeted us. We were rewarded with beautiful views of Mulher and Mora. Another large water tank on the fort requires a descent but from here the sharp outline of Salota was visible. The top of Hargad played hide and seek in clouds throughout the day but we were lucky to get a break so that we could enjoy the views.

Our visit to Hargad ended as the clouds took over the fort. There is a cannon on the fort but we skipped it and started moving down as we wanted to reach base before nightfall. Descent was quicker and we reached down in good time, moving from the common col of Mulher-Hargad to a long ridge falling from Hargad. Down at the base, my cousin took a panoramic shot of the entire range; looking at the three mountains we felt proud of having done three forts in a day before the sun had set!

How to reach: From Nasik travel to Satana, then Taharabad and finally Mulher village (about 134kms from Nasik).

Where to stay: One can possibly stay at the temples on the machi as the caves on the top are messy. Near Mulher village is Uddhav Maharaj Mandir which is hospitable to trekker and they give out clean rooms to stay and are most helpful and informative.

Pictures at: https://picasaweb.google.com/115394767952469723630/BaglanTrek?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Read Full Story...